Well I started on the task of pulling my motor this past weekend, this is going to take forever <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

I spent 3 hours on Friday evening after work, and another 3 or so hours yesterday, and I still have a lot left to do.
Why does Mitsu use so many different size bolts? Most of that time was documenting what bolt went where... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

I have all the wireing disconected, all the fluids drained, all the brackets from front of the motor are off (it's down to the timing covers), and the starter is out. That's it after 6 hours.. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />

All I have left is Exhaust, Fuel lines, throttle cable, tranny conections..

Ok on to my questions:
The truck was not in a running state when I started this so I could not start it to release fuel pressure, is there another way to do it or am I just going to make a mess?

What is the best order to remove the exhaust? I know I need to pull the Y-pipe, because it crosses directly under where I need to get at to take the torque converter bolts off from. I just didn't know of the best way to start. Should I start by discontecting them from the manifolds first or at the intermediate pipe?

And last but not least, do you need to pull the drive shaft to get to the drivers side motor mounts? The book says so but I haven't really looked at it yet, and figured when I was under there messing with the tranny I would just pull it then if need be.

dont disconnect fuel rails from firewall, youll regret it. as for everything else remove where it hooks up to the engine and ziptie out of the way.
remove the fuel filter... that should take a majority of the fuel pressure out of the lines.

unless your taking the tranny out, leave the y-pipe in place and just disconnect the manifolds from the block, otherwise your just making more work for yourself.

Since there's no test port to relieve pressure - put a couple of rags under the fuel connection and let it leak off the pressure as you disconnect the fitting.... you'll get some gas, but not too much.


I think you'll find the balance of the work easier if you unbolt the exhaust manifolds and completely remove them before pulling the engine, but IIRC you can pull the engine with them still attached (you probably should have the gasket flanges surfaced anyway)..... to disconnect the pipes a long extension (or 2) makes the job a bit easier. And yes, I think the crossover pipe has to be removed.

You'll have more room to work if you pull the front prop shaft and again IIRC I think it's necessary. Be certain to first drain the t-case or you'll have a mess of oil on the floor.

Good luck,
Frank

Re: fuel line disconnection
Man, there's a common misconception that this thing will just spray gas everywhere once the line is disconnnected - NOT TRUE! Pressure is created by the fuel pump in a tiny little fuel line. Without the fuel pump turned on, any remaining pressure will be released within less than 1sec after breaking the line. If the trucks been sittin' around for awhile, it's doubtful that there's any pressure in the line whatsoever. The gas is not jam-packed in there so tightly that it'll gush. It's essentially the same thing as disconnecting a brake line. Yes, gas is going to drain, but as long as you were smart enough to have a rag handy, it won't be an issue.

The main issue is all the fuel laying in wait inside the fuel rail. Try to pull the rail with all the injectors still attached and there will be little problem. However, once you lose one, all the gas in the rail is going to drain out through that port. If you manage to get it out without breaking a connection, take it to a safe container where you can drain it... or just let it drain into a rag... that was the original plan anyways, correct? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I was planning on disconecting the fuel lines from where they attach to the fuel rail, and yes use the rag method to capture the mess. Glad to hear it isn't going to spray every where.. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />



Grass13 - How do I get to the torque converter bolts and the bolts holding the engine to th tranny then? If there is an easier way please let me know..

Frank - Thanks for the heads up on the front drive shaft I would have found out the hard way that I needed to drop fluid first.. Why is this different from trannies? I have pulled the driveshaft out of my firebird many times without the tranny leaking fluid <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

DougB - Thanks for the warning about trapped fuel in the rail I will keep an eye out for that and hopefully it won't get in my eye. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> OK that wan't funny, but I never said I was a comedian..

when i was looking for my mystery vibration the mating bolts were part of my check... i actually thought my tranny was loose <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />! it was a pain to do but i was able to check all the bolts. yes, it would have been easier if the y-pipe wasnt there... but in the past ive had bad luck when it comes to getting the exhaust to seal properly, ive grown to hate replacing the donuts or gaskets a few thousand times before getting them to seal <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/drunk.gif" alt="" />. if you drop your exhaust manifolds and remove the armor you should have enough room.

Good to know that it is possible to get at the mounting bolts, but did you pull the inspection cover of to get to the torque converter that way? If I can get to everything then it is worth a shot, because I have been there, done that, with exhaust not sealing properly... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

Both F&R prop shafts have slip yokes that slide onto the splines of the F&R t-case output shafts, which leaves a big hole in the t-case. The front shaft hole is well below the oil level, but the rear is above the oli level and can be removed without leakage.

You have to pull the inspection cover on the bell housing to get to the torque converter bolts. Pull the spark plugs, transmission in neutral, put a 1/2" drive socket (with a long ratchet handle) on the crank pulley bolt and as you remove a bolt, reach behind your head to the ratchet handle, turn the engine (clockwise as viewed from the front) to the next bolt and you get them one at a time without having to crawl around too much.

Make certain the torque converter stays with the transmission and doesn't come out with the engine. When you get to the point of reinstalling the engine, there is a trick to seating the torque converter so the engine mates up properly. Let us know and someone will keep you out of trouble in that area.

Frank

I will certainly be asking for tips when it is time to go in but that may be a few weeks from now.. Thanks again Frank.

The engine is out and at the machine shop, I am hopefully going to have it back in a few weeks, but I still have a long list of parts that I need to get...

Where is the best place to find part numbers?

The dealership is "busy right now" and said they will get back to me later this week, I was just looking for partnumbers to order them online for a cheeper price, but I can't tell them that...

I need:
Motor Mounts
Head bolts
Water pump
Timing Belt
Timing Belt tensioner
Harmonic Ballancer/pulley assembly _______# MD141468
Front Flange - behind pulley assembly
Woodruf Key
Pulley bolt washer _______ # MR994412
Pulley bolt _______ # MD138069
Crank timing pulley

Does anyone know the part numbers for the other items? I found the ones above by searching the forum here for the past few hours, aand can't seam to come up with the rest...