Electrical diagnosis

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Electrical diagnosis #626996 07/15/05 08:37 PM

Joined: Mar 2003

Posts: 33

2timer

Getting the Wheeling Fever

My drivers side rear tailights along with the liscense plates lights are out. The tester I have works on the battery terminal but can not get a positive test from the passanger rear lights (which work). I am grounding to the rear hitch which is connected to a a pretty rusty frame. Is the rust my problem?

Re: Electrical diagnosis [Re: 2timer] #626997 07/15/05 09:18 PM

Joined: Feb 2004

Posts: 10,238

Columbia, SC

FrankR

Web Wheeler

It could very well be the problem. Why don't you try testing from the (+) of the bulb socket to an inside-the-truck screw into the body for (-) and see if you have 12vdc. Or, you could try testing continuity from the bulb socket frame to the chassis (or body) and see if you have a good connection.

If the light control relay was the problem you wouldn't have a tail light on the other side either.

Frank

'89 [color:"white"]G-Raider[color:"white"] [color:"black"]Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 172k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum

Re: Electrical diagnosis [Re: FrankR] #626998 07/16/05 12:56 AM

Joined: Jan 2001

Posts: 13,649

Helen , GA

fasteddy

Web Wheeler

Take out the passenger side rear lamp assembly, and you'll find the connector for the drivers side light harness inside the hole. Check that, too. Plenty of good grounds when you take the housing out...

Not responsible for advice not taken...

Re: Electrical diagnosis [Re: fasteddy] #626999 07/16/05 03:41 PM

Joined: Oct 2004

Posts: 6,332

In the beer cooler

52degrees

Trail Leader

And one other thing, put the DVOM away. It's no good for checking power/grounds on unloaded circuits. Use a test lamp for this kind of diagnosis. It's much more accurate.

Clay

1990 Montero RS (In pieces... for now)

KG6VNX

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