Yeah, but then some of those people are stupid & take that nice, rust-free vehicle to the PNW... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Where if it don't rust, the berry vines drag it away <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

I've been trying to get my upper ball joints into the steering knuckle and they don't want to go in. The fit is way too tight. Can anyone confirm that there is a sleeve that gets pressed into the top of the steering knuckle so the Superlift adaptor bolt (which is not tapered) will have a tight fit? The sleeve would turn the tapered hole into a straight hole. I'm ready to cut it out, but want to make sure.

I found some instructions on the net and it does have a sleeve as part of the Superlift kit. I gut the sleeve out and popped the ball joint in.

I'm now working on getting the truck aligned good enough to drive it around town. I have the torsion bars adjusted so that they are 15" from the rim to the bottom of the fender. Is this the right distance. I couldn't find the answer earlier when I was working on the truck.

A little while ago I saw on another site that Toyota sets the distance on stock trucks from 13.5"-14". Anyone know the right spec? I also noticed that the distance changes as I move the alignment cam bolts so I have been going back and forth between aligning it and adjusting the torsion bars as I close in on the right combination.

I believe 15 inches is for maximum crank you should have on the front end, 13.5-14 is about right. But then again that is what ive read for the 90-95 4Runner, 86-95 Toyota Truck.

Ive been considering getting rid of my drop bracket suspension as well, let us all know if your Gas mileage improves much...

I think I'll lower the torsion bars a little then. I think the gas mileage should improve considerably. With the lift I got about 15mpg consistently and now I should be up around the 18-20 range. We can ask cny97T as well to see how he is doing with the lift.

By the way, Zack- I found out that there are some sleeves that install in the top of the steering knuckle where the adaptor is bolted on (the ball joint would normally go in here). I don't know if they are still available from Superlift and if they really matter. I did not remember them at all until I read about a Superlift install on another site.

I've installed used lifts w/o those sleeves and never had a problem. I wouldn't worry about it.

Thanks for the info Erik.

I sealed the holes in the floor (from the torsion bar adjusting bolts when they broke) and then laid down some Peel-n-seal from Lowes. It went on easily and quickly. It is very sticky and once it goes down and makes contact it starts to settle and stick. I could reposition it if only a few areas were in contact with the floor, but not once I pressed it into place and rolled it out with a little wooden roller.

I am looking forward to driving it to see how quiet it is compared to without the Peel-n-seal. I am still working on getting it aligned well enough to drive to a shop for a proper alignment. Tomorrow I should be able to start it up and get it out of the garage.

Pics- http://photos.yahoo.com/sdelthony

With the T100 back to stock height and the torsion bars cranked up to 15.5" the 32" tires still rubbed the rear fenderwell when turning. I just got some stock 15x7 steel Toyota truck wheels and swapped my 32" BFGs over to the stock wheels. Now the tires are tucked into the wheel wells, the backspacing is more than the Eagle 589s I had on it, and they do not rub. I still have the t-bars cranked up and I will try to lower them down to 15" or even 14.5", but leave them just high enough to reduce the rubbing.

The peel-n-seal has made the truck quieter and the asphalt smell is still there a month later. The smell fades quickly with the windows open and I hope it disappears over time.