I have problems, I was removing the motor in my 1994 amigo to put in the new clutch I have been avoiding to put in since November last year. When i was lifting the engine out the blue connector (that mounts beside the black connector on the passenger fenderwell) caught on the battery tray and ripped half the wires out of the connect that goes in under the intake manifold.

A few of the wires look like they are 3" longer than the other ones now and some of the wires look like there were cut right off and don't half the connectors that slide into this blue connection anymore.

Any advice on what wires go where and how to fix this? do i need a new harness? if so where can i get one? anyone have a spare to sell?

I can email pictures if I didn't explain this clearly but I don't know how to post any on here.

Jeff

would a 1990 isuzu truck harness be the same? i have a spare one somewhere hooked onto the 1990 plenum if i can find it.

would i be able to plug this harness in? are the injector tops and what not all the same that i would be able to utilize this complete 1990 harness with the blue and black connectors?

thanks,

Jeff

What engine do you have

2.6

check you PM's.

-- Dan

email sent.

Pics:

The wires are a little fuzzy, however, the blades of grass came out nice and sharp <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />


Give me a few and I'll round up the info on what pins go where. On the wires that look cut, they probably pulled out of the pin and the pin is sill in the connectors. Also, the 90 harness won't work. The '94 is a new harness. Some pins are likely the same, but may not be, and the colors I'm almost certain are different.

Replacing pins is easy, you just slide them in the back of the connector and they'll snap in place. Even being yanked out like that, they will still likely snap in OK.

If there are some pins still left in the connector that the wires broke off of, you'll need to remove them. On the other side of the connecter, pull the yellow plastic insert / pin stabalizer out. Just grab it with pliers and it pops straight out. Then use a small jewelers screwdriver to lift the locking clip (visible after taking the insert out) off the pin and push it out.

You can re-solder the wires to the pin for a quick repair, but you mentioned you had the other harness from a '90. You can still use one of those pins for a replacement. Clip it with 2" - 3" of wire still attached and splice it to your broken wire, then plug into your connector.

--Dan

The connector you have is considered the male side. Male/female is determined by the sex of the actual pin, not the moulded connector that houses them.

If you look into the pin end of the connector (wires at the back facing AWAY from you) with the locking tab up, the pins are numbered from Right to Left, Top to Bottom. So:

04 03 02 01
08 07 06 05
12 11 10 09
16 15 14 13


Pins from my '94 Amigo are:

01 : black / white
02 : blue / green (manual says light green though)
03 : white / green
04 : black / purple
05 : black (thicker one) It's connected to the shielding wire braid.
06 : black (thinner one)
07 : green / black
08 : green / yellow
09 : empty
10 : yellow / blue (see notes below)
11 : green / black
12 : yellow / black
13 : empty
14 : grey
15 : blue (goes to ignition coil NEG)
16 : yellow / blue (goes to ignition coil POS) (see notes below)


Note: 5 & 6 are tied together on the chassis side of the connector, so it's not a big deal if you get them reveresed. They're both common ground.

Note: 10 & 16 are the same colors, but very different.
10 : runs the oil pressure gauge in the XS instrument cluster. The wire runs to the single-wire oil pressure sensor that screws into the oil filter housing.

16 : runs to the ignition coil POS position.


That should do it.

--Dan

the ones that are still in the connector........ they are 3" longer than the other ones now. do you think they could have disconnected from the other end....like where they meet the distributor, injectors, etc.