Zack and list. I have found a few cold start issues on oils other than diesel that are commonly known and some not. These engines will crank and run with compression as low as 390 lbs. on diesel , but lower than 400 lbs. make it marginal on veggie oil. So in my opinion compression is the leading factor to determine a single or dual tank system. It take a good glow plug system. In simple terms the glow plug system Must draw between 180-200 amps at the battery on initial cold start in order for consistent cold starts. If you find hard starts when the engine is about 140-160? then disconnect the wire at the sending unit that stops the glow plug system from working over 120?. If you have over night cranking problems with good compression and a good glow plug system then be looking at the factory fuel filter housing and fuel line for a air leak. There is a check valve in the filter housing that sticks open with the thicker fuels allowing the fuel to flow back to the tank. If all of the above checks good then try advancing the IP timing about 4?.
Filtering is very complicated, but yet very simple. First step is dealing with material contaminates. Pre filter what ever oil you run to at least 10 micron--5 better.....then let it set and settle for as long as you can. Now test for water....drop on hot exhaust.....smoke good....... sizzle Not...... If you have suspended water (sizzle) the fuel should be de-watered before using. The "excepted" way for veggie oil is to heat the oil to about 120? for a few hours....let cool and use the top 75%. I did not find this very satisfactory. Now before some one flames me about what I am about to say, "I am still testing with good results so far". Take a very large funnel and line it with about six or seven layers of paper towels.....pour your fuel through this about three times before changing the towels.....I am not trying to filter material contaminates but to absorb the tiny droplets of water.....(works amazingly well when oil has been blended with diesel or gas)...I then let it settle again for as long as I can and filter again to 5 micron before going into the fuel tank.
Thought that was complicated.....just wait........now you must take into account that at any point that your "fuel" is mixed with diesel/gas that it may cause very small particles to fall out of suspension and settle to the bottom of the fuel can or fuel tank. This can and does happen with a dual tank system at the time of change over (flushing the IP). Perhaps a third tank for flush?????This is more critical with using used hydraulic or motor oil on a single tank system. This is the main reason that I elected for the single tank(personal opinion) system and blend and filter all of my fuel before going into fuel tank. At this time I pre mix with 5% unleaded gas and 10% diesel to both thin the mix as well try to cause as much of the suspended material and water to "fall out" of the mix before entering the fuel tank. I will always limit the unleaded gas to 5% but may change the diesel % with weather or oil quality. If you have "smoke" on your mix try adding a little more diesel.
Note of caution when using diesel/gas and heated fuel line/filter. It is best to keep the temps below about 130-135? because of vapor lock. If you need some heat to keep the fuel filter from clogging, a good choice is to "tee" the IP return line into the incoming fuel line before the filter. I have found that using the "tee" setup gives about 106-109? temps when driving. Placing a turbo boost gauge between the fuel filter and the IP can forewarn you of filter plugging. I recommend adding a clear inline fuel filter as well as a electric fuel pump at the fuel tank in order to get more mileage out of your filters as well as to help with fuel starvation.
I welcome corrections, suggestions and questions as I have a lot to learn........
crossbones
