Hello,

I am in need of some expert advice with my idle problem. First I would like to ask if IAC motors can work intermittently then just die? My idle has been screwy every since I got my truck last July. It idled very low. I removed my IAC motor (Last July) because I read about a zillion posts saying that it just needed to be cleaned. I removed it and it wasn't at all dirty and I also tested the ohms between both rows of pins and the all read about 28-30. So, i knew then that it must be the dreaded leak at the butterfly valve (3.5DOHC) and some carb cleaner sprayed in the area confirmed this.. I saved up for the lower plenum and it was installed 3 weeks ago. The low idle was gone! Hoooray!

So today when I left church, the truck was barely idling and even stalled!! I got home and pulled the IAC motor (it was spotlessly clean) and tested the resistance between the rows of pins--THEY ALL READ ZERO! Is this possible? Could all the coils in the IAC die instantly/all at once like this?? I put everything back together and started the truck. It started up and idled fine -time for test drive-got to top of street- about 100 rpm idle but no stall. So now the truck is in the garage and will barely idle so I am awaiting any responses from any of you about what else it might be before I proceed. Just put a new alternator in it last week and not quite ready for another $200-$300 part{new IAC}) <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />

I am ready to drive it off a cliff and jump out :-( <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/drunk.gif" alt="" />

-Aaron
1995 Montero SR 3.5L V6 DOHC 125,000 miles

They can all die if something comes apart and it moves across the windings.

Get one out of a wrecking yard. Most car companies use one IAC for multiple applications.

Clay

The IAC has 2 center-tapped windings in it, with the center taps being ground (and the common point for taking your readings). There's likely mechanical damage if you are reading a dead short accross all four test points. Or, somthing lodged agains the pins inside the IAC. Couldn't hurt to crack it open again and see, takes all of 10 minutes to pull them out and open them up.

If indeed it is toast, you can consider these folks for a rebuilt one for quite a bit less here: Crebotech.

I haven't used them (yet) but am considering doing so soon, as one of my readings is about 1600 ohms, and I have funky idle issues.

Double check your readings, certainly-
it seems odd that it would just go all at once.

However, I had pulled 3 motors from the local yard. Between ALL THREE I found 2 coils (not motors, just coils) that were still good, and made up one working motor from that. Something I discovered, though: in a pinch, you can pull apart a dead motor and bolt it back on, with the back half of it removed. Then you get a manually- adjustable idle speed controller. I suspect it leaks a bit, and it will drift over time, but it helped me discover that I had several different problems, not just one!

hth,
Toby

The new IAC & O-Ring are in transit and will be here tomorrow. I'll let you all know what happens after I reset the ECM and install the new IAC.

thanks for the input:-)

-Aaron

You went new and not rebuilt?

Well, I drive old cars (my other car is a 1987 Audi 5000CSTQ with nearly 300,000 miles on it) In my past experience, any and all aftermarket(non OEM) or rebuilt parts are garbage. I only use dealer OEM and OE parts and any time I relented and tried to save money or it was more convenient, the non dealer parts have not fit right, not worked, or failed after install. No offense to all those who buy those parts , but OEM works best for my vehicles anyway :-)


p.s. if anyone is interested in dealer-only parts, I get all of mine shipped from Mentor Mits. in Ohio. They have the best dealer prices that I have found anywhere -online or otherwise!
-aaron

I hear you. But A lot Of OEM Parts Are made By Aftermarket companies Just package different. It' the same With everything you buy from Food to Household products.Most of the cost your Paying is for Marketing

I realize that . Most of my Audi parts I get are from 'other' sources who buy from the original manufacturers. It's kinda funny-I'll get a part that was made by Bosch or VDO for Audi from a non-dealer supplier for much less and it will have the "4 rings" Audi symbol rubbed off with a Dremel !(all Audi parts have the '4 Rings' symbol pressed into them.) I Have not found as many 'alternate' sources for real dealer parts for Mitsubishi yet but I'm sure they are out there. Also , I guess I was moaning more in this thread about Used parts anyway.

-Aaron

New IAC arrived today. Reset computer, screwed it on, started her up, let her idle about 15 min., drove around for about 30-40 min. in 100 degree heat-----Idled like a champ. Anyone need a flaky IAC? I now have a spare!

-Aaron