So, I dropped my gas tank today (96 T100 4x4 SR5 5spd) to see where the leak was coming from. Turned out that dirt had accumulated between the tank and the rubber rock guard, and this had started the tank rusting along the bottom. So, what should I do now? Is it possible to have it repaired (or do it myself)? If not, should I try to get one from a salvage yard or order a new one? Any suggestions?

Finally, the main line to the engine with the 14mm/17mm fitting could not be uncoupled without mangling the steel line. Could I repair this with a hose and pair of clamps, or does it need to be more involved?

Thanks in advance for any advice!!!

home depot sells some stuff...Naval Jelly or something like that, its in a white plastic bottle (like a 1 pint bottle) with a purple label, with all the other cleaning stuff next to the paint. it will dissolve rust. So might want to try that and then spray over the now bare metal with some sort of a primer in a can you can get at autozone. of course if this doesn't work you'll have to replace the tank.

As far as the hose....cut the ends off of it, replace with some fuel line hose and 2 worm gear clamps (the clamps that have the screw that you turn to tighten) from autozone and you'll be fine.

www.por15.com

I'd get new plumbing; remember with EFI the lines are pressurized around 28-36 psi, so keep that in mind, regardless of your decision for repair.

PB Blaster (NAPA) or Aerokroil www.kanolabs.com is your friend the next time for teardowns.

As far as repairing the tank, you might want to look in the local Yellow Pages under either welding shops or radiator repair places. They might be able to repair the tank where it has rusted and worn through. If you cannot find anybody to repair the tank, then I would start looking to a junkyard for a replacement. You might want to try www.car-part.com for a gas tank. I think that all years of the T100 had the same size tank, just the '93 & '94 had the tank filler on the opposite side. I can't be sure that the '93-'94 model tanks would fit your '96, but anything from a '95-'98 model T100 would.
As far as the lines, kewlynx said it best. "GET NEW LINES".

Thanks for the advice!

While I've got the tank off, should I consider replacing the fuel pump? It's 9 years old and has 143,000 miles on it. Or are they generally pretty reliable even at this point. Thanks!

Well I haven't heard of anyone on this board replacing one and there are quite a few of us with well over 200K miles. My fuel pump is 13 years old and has 214K miles on it and is still working OK!

I also have not heard of anyone else having to drop their tank because of a leak or rusting out from the plastic pan. Take a look at the inside of the gas tank and see if there is any rust. I believe that there might be a "sock" type filter on the pick-up tube. See if that is clean or not. Someone correct me if I am wrong, please! If everything looks good, then I would leave it alone and not replace the fuel pump at this time.

If you are having a shop fix the tank, I think that there is some solution that they can put in the tank to coat the inside to keep it from rusting. You might want to consider doing that, or I think that JC Whitney sells the stuff. I just don't remember what it is called.

But then if your luck is like mine, after having all of this work done, then the pump would crap out about two weeks later <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" />. If you do decide to replace the pump, I would go with an OEM part (it may be time to call Carroll at Gettel for pricing).

BE VERY CAREFUL about welding a gas tank. Many people have been seriously injured welding a gas tank because the fumes remain in and around the tank for a long long LONG time (weeks, months, longer) and ignite very easily with the high temperatures of welding. Many shops will absolutly refuse to do it anyway, but just FYI, dont let anyone do it unless you trust they know what they are doing.

Por 15 sells a gas tank coating that they claim is very effective at sealing the inside of gas tanks.

I have had success fixing small leaks on my gas lines (in need of replacement) with an clay-like epoxy (cant remember exact name) that I believe I first heard about through JB Weld. I think the JB version is called JB Patch or something. I didnt find it in JB brand but I found another brand in PepBoys and Lowes. It is basically a cylindrically shapped portion of firm epoxy that you kneed together for a few minutes and apply. It sealed my leaks right away and i havent seen a problem since -- but I still plan on replacing the lines at some point.

Good luck.

-IJF

Update:

So, I ended up buying a new (used) gas tank for not a whole lot of money. Put it on and... had a leak at the fuel line fitting. So, I dropped the new tank and cut out the fitting with a pipe cutter and replaced it with a FI hose and mounted the tank and now... nothing. I think I may have overstressed the wiring harnesses while I was dropping the tank the second time. The fuel guage seems to be working properly, but my guess is that I'm not getting +12v to the fuel pump. I am assuming that I should have +12v across the contacts when I turn the engine switch to 'ON'-- is that correct? I don't, so I think I've got some wiring work in my future. Just wanted to confirm that before I get started. Thanks!

Edit:
Well, I traced back the wiring harness to the connector under the drivers seat, and was able to determine that there IS continuity from both pairs of wires to the fuel pump connector. But, when I turn the engine on, I don't get +12v to the fuel pump! Why not??? I just ordered a FSM but it won't get here until next week. Argh!

There is a fuel pump relay that supplies the power. I can check my manual later to see where it is and what feeds it power. When you first start the motor it closes that relay for long enought to start and then if the computer doesn't tell it it is getting air, etc, it will shut it down. The idea being if you get into a wreck or something it won't keep pumping out fuel.

This is from a 97 manual but may be the same. The EFI 15 Amp fuse in the fuse block under the hood feed the 12V to the EFI relay in that same fuse block. From that relay it goes to the circuit opening relay C6. The way that C6 relay works is that is has 2 seperate energizing coils to close the relay and provide power to the fuel pump. When the key is in the start position with the starter turning, one coil is energized and the relay closes turning on the fuel pump to start it. Then, the second coil is energized by the Eng. computer once it see that air is flowing into the engine and that keeps the fuel pump turned on. It looks like C6 is located either in the passenger side kick panel or behind the glove box. Can't really tell from the picture.