Looking thru old posts I saw this and with my own fuel line trouble this summer I had to comment.

Anytime a rigid tube/pipe meets a flexible hose, the tube needs to have a barb in the end. A hose clamp is meant to keep the end of the hose from going over the barb. If you just cut the fuel tube and slap a hose on, it'll come off.

Do not ever use hose clamps with slits in them on fuel lines. They tend to cut into hose. I've seen two kinds of hose clamps used on EFI lines - on Nissans they were solid steel band clamps that used a screw to tighten (and the FSM said never to reuse these) and on German cars they were Oetiker clamps (use a pincer plier to set them, and you have to break them to remove them) which are also solid steel around the inside circumference.

During my ordeal I fked up the nuts at both sides of the fuel filter. Hate for Toyota, for leaving these exposed so that dirt and rust causes the nut to weld itself to the tube.

I spent about $60 at the dealer for new fuel lines: I replaced the rigid line from the flexible hose coming off the fuel tank to the fuel filter; the longer rigid line from the fuel filter to the engine compartment; and the flexible hose attached to the rigid line in the engine compartment. I managed to get the union close to the fuel tank apart without twisting or stressing that piece of rubber hose much; no such luck under the hood and I didn't want to chance it, don't want fuel spilling onto the exhaust manifold.

Anyone who wants part numbers (for 1sttoyotaparts) PM me I will look them up in EPC. Oetiker clamps are my favorite and even tho they are not reusable and you have to buy pliers they are the most cost effective. $3-4 for a bag of 25 from mcmaster.com, measure the OD of your hose first.


97 T100 4x4
97 328i
95 540i restoration project