So my 1-2 shift has been almost non-existenet since I bought the truck but it's getting worse. I've checked the kickdown, filter, fluid etc...all the recomended stuff on the board.

Today I decided to put it in D-2 and see what happened. Well it shifted perfectly from 1-2 at 2800-3000 rpms what does this mean?

In D I have to get up to 4000+ rpms and then let up off the pedal for it to go into 2nd.

I'm thinking if it shifts good in d-2 then there must be a specific component in the valve body that needs a cleaning or replacement??? not the cable, 1-2 valve or governor if it works in D-2, what else could it be?

Kickdown cable.

I checked and lubed it it seems good, slides in and out easy. Also if it was the cable I should have the late shift in D2 also, right?

my truck was doign the same, i would have a hard time getting in 2nd and until i really floored it would kickin, i replaced the kickdown cable and now its a butterfly shifting all over the place <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" />

Wrong. The shifting "flow" components are different in D2. (At least in most auto trans w/ more than 2 gears that I know of) Now the 1-2 shift is soft? Almost hard to feel? but takes too long to shift? Actually have to let off to get it to shift to 2nd gear? This is usually a sticking govornor. Cleaning it can sometimes fix it, but I found that they usually are worn out and will continue to stick even after a cleaning. The govorner is in the tail housing, removal of the xfer case is ness to get to it. There is a small governor screen filter that keeps debris from getting into the govorner, this can stop up and cause similar symtoms. The filter is the size of a pencil eraser and is located under a plate in the tailhousing, under the gov. Problem w/ trans work is, any ajustments or patchwork is still a major undertaking in a 4wd, and can be a real PITA when it doesn't fix your problem.
Best thing you can do is ajust your kickdown cable as per the FSM then tighten it slightly from there to compensate for and age related cable streach and report back.

I already tightened the cable, no go, still have the shift problem exactly as you described (rev high, let off the pedal, soft shift) I guess I'll try the governor.

A new governor is $150+ can I just replace the weight and spring?

PS according to hydraulic schematic the difference between D & 2 is Brake2 which also opens up another line to the 1-2 valve. Now why would the governor be affected if the pressure to the governor is the same? A second pressure line to the 1-2 valve is increasing pressure to that valve possibly freeing it up if stuck.

just a theory I don't know squat about transmissions but staring at the schematic that's what it looks like.

Thanks

You are kinda looking at it backwards.

The Line pressure to the governor changes as the pressure is bled off by the governor. (- <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> That don't sound right but...). as the speed of your output shaft increases, the governor smoothly opens bleeding pressure, timing the 1-2 shift correctly. If the weight does not move smoothly it will stall the 1-2 shift until the pressure drops by you letting off the gas (throttle pressure). Then it will shift. As far as replacing the weight and spring, the bore can be worn too. The new governorprobably will not fix the soft shift, It's a crap shoot.

I would like to get some line and governor pressures but I don't want to lead you into a big mess. I was going through the FSM for a short time to try to help. I realized that this is going to much more of a pain to you than me. Are you willing to tear into this and possibly not find the problem easily? The proper way to diag this it to start w/ line and governor pressures. It is not that hard and gauges are not that expensive. It will point to the component that is failing. Problem is, all that is just explaining the bad shift, not the soft shift. That could become a slip fairly quick. That is more likly a worn piston seal or shaft sealing ring. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />
I will stare at the flow chart later and see if I can see a possible cause to both problems.
Diagnosing auto trans fluid flow tends to be tricky when you are working with the vehicle in front of you.....

Thanks wyleone I appreciate all your help.

I took it to a bunch of local shops and they all just wanted to do a rebuild without testing. I asked for a line pressure test and they said they didn't have the equipement!?!?!? that made me think they were incompetant or unwilling to trouble shoot and just wanted to go for the $$$, although one shop said they could do the rebuild for $700. That seemed a bit low to me and made me think it was a minor problem especially after having heard the km148 go up 350km. You seem to know alot about this so I'll take your opinion on this, I found a 91 A/T 93k local for $350 should I just swap that puppy in and save myself the headache or could this be an relatively easy fix?

Thanks to this forum my skills are drastically improved so I can do minor fix to the tranny while killing a 6 pack no prob <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

but a complex rebuild is beyond me. I just don't have the space.

$350 is about right, I paid $400 for a used one w/xfercase attached. It came with a 6mo warranty and had 100k mi on it.
That was in August 02. The price was right and I had little time to go tearing into mine, I knew mine was toast. I had lots of metal pieces and debris in the pan. 2Hrs later I was driving again.
I have a rack and every tool I need to do the swap in short order. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />
About the shops not wanting to do a line pressure test <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />, They probably shoot from the hip,
They only make $$ with an overhaul. They may not know what to do with one. MFRs usually require detailed diag, where little independant shops just tear into them and look.
$700 is low, That is probbly just for a reseal, where if there are broken parts theye will call you and tell you after the thing is apart that you need $400 more in parts. I know how it works. I see people <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />
When they just left aa*co or Bob's trans shop and the thing shifts like crap.

If you can get a trans that cheap, I think your decision is made. Make sure there is a warranty of some sort.

I seems like most auto trans shops always just want to do a rebuild instead of fix specific problems. I can understand why they would do it that way. But I have another question. Do the A/T shops rebuild them at the shop? OR is there some central rebuild place where they send them to be rebuilt?