The above two photos are NOT of the axle in question, but rather an example of what this one looks like.

Sorry for the confusion!


<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> like i need to come down to BFE and try to get your axles.


hard to tell you if it's a good deal with out a price.

I figured youÆd know I was just kiddÆn around! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" />



The fact is that IÆm probably NOT gonna be able to get these myself, and IÆll most likely end-up posting the whole shebang over in the For Sale Forum, on PaulÆs behalf. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

If thatÆs what happens, I sincerely hope that someone around here will give them a good homeà preferably under an Isuzu!


But I havenÆt given-up just yet!



Another Question:
If my current performance with 4.30s & 32s is any indication - then with 5.13s, wouldnÆt 36s put me mighty close to where I am right now, power-wise?


<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

it's just about proprtions


you are trying to trick the drivetrain with the axle gears into "thinking" the tires are stock size.

there are guys in my 4x4 club running 44's on rockwells with Toyota 4cyl. (22re)

it's all about the gears....... especially when they are in the 6.72 range <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

After looking at a couple of Gear and Tire Charts, it looks like the 5:13 & 36ö tire combination would give me a boost of about 200 rpms at highway speedsà putting things within about 100 rpms of where they were originally, with the stock sized tires.

Long story short - ON PAPER I would have a little bit more power than I have right now.


So far, so good! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />


<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

perhaps, but you'll have a lot more weight and rolling resistance, so you definitely wouldn't notice the power. in fact, you may notice the opposite.

basically, if you were to ever do this, you might as well forget about your gear charts and paper calculations. the 14bff gearing is limited to 5.13 (well, I think 5.38's are shipping now, but still not commonplace). So, gear the thing to the max and be done with it. the D60 you can take to 7.17 if you really want to, but you won't get a 14bff gear to match and once you get above the low 5 ratios, the pinion starts to get might small and weak.


And i agree with everyone else, we need more info before we can say whethers its a deal. like an asking price or more specs/actual picture before we could say a price.

-Rob

Are you saying the knuckle was flat on top instead of the cap w/ the 4 bolts like in the pictures above? What you have pictured above are kingpin D60's, its a pretty destinct design. There are however D60 that use balljoints like a D44 does which aren't nearly as nice (and worth as much).

Is this a passenger or drivers side drop D60?

-Rob

IÆll be the first to admit that I am swimming out into uncharted waters hereà

Up until now, I havenÆt put a whole lot of serious study into whatÆs involved in doing a SAS û especially since I didnÆt think I would be doing mine for quite a while stillà so basically, it appears that my use of terminology is a bit weak.


I was speaking of the arm where the steering linkage attaches. --- On the axle that Paul has, it looked to me like it was straight/flat (and not re-curved downward), unlike the two pictured aboveà although I could be wrong about this û IÆll know for sure after seeing it again and taking plenty of photos.


I chose the images above to illustrate as closely as possible what PaulÆs D-60 looks likeà It is definitely a passenger-side drop, and the steering cross bar is positioned exactly like what you see in the photos.



IÆm still not 100% certain if the rear axle is a 14-Bolt or notà Compared to the photos that IÆve looked at in the last day or so, it looks like one (as best as I can tell)à but again, IÆm no expert. --- And at the moment, I donÆt even know for sure if the gears in the rear match those in the frontà All I do know is that they were claimed to be swapped and matching.


Paul received this thing as payment against an outstanding debtà HeÆs a skilled mechanic - but heÆs not a 4-wheeler gear head, so he doesnÆt really know very much about the set-up on it, or what is involved in building a trail rig or mud bogger.

In fact (and hereÆs a scary thought for ya!), heÆs been picking *my* brain to learn more about this thingà and should he choose to build it up before selling it, heÆll be relying on *me* to steer him in the right direction as far as T-case(s), drive shafts, etc. [YIKES!]

I already told him that IÆm not an expert (or even remotely close!) û but I guess he figures that I know more about it than he does, and thatÆs better than nothing. [(again) YIKES!]



Anyway, IÆll post some photos and whatever information I can - hopefully sometime tomorrow afternoon.

Thanks again!


<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

A stock steering arm (of whatever variety) is going to be of little value to you. You will definitely want crossover/hi-steer, which means you'll be ditching the stock arm and buying new arms that bolt onto the kingpin cap and jut out forward.

Another words, stock chevy steering uses a shorty tie rod from the steering box to the drivers side knuckle. this means, if you're flexy out, you can effectively turn the steering wheel 360* and not have the wheels move at all... not good! so you'll wanna relocate the steering arm to the passenger side knuckle with a much longer tie rod.

-Rob

UPDATE:

I stopped by PaulÆs yesterday to check the ratio on those gearsà


I have serious doubts that they were ever swapped, as claimed - I donÆt know - but according to the Tire & Gear Charts that IÆve looked at, youÆd have to install a diesel engine to even come close to turning those 42sà

Ring Gear: 45 teeth
Pinion: 11 teeth

Ratio: 4.10:1


Based on this, I didnÆt even bother to check the ratio in the rear.



SOME PHOTOS:











^^^ Rob, I see what you mean about the steering linkage. --- The way it is right now, even sitting at-rest, it looks like itÆs about to pull itself apartà I can only imagine what it would look like articulated.



The more I find out, the more distance I'm inclined to put between me and this thing <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" />


<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
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