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 Re: To 10w40 or not to 10w40... that is the question...
[Re: icu_runnin]
#639673
08/23/05 03:33 PM
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 222
OP
Wheeler
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hey Cure actually the 30 in 5w30 is when it is cold. The oil gets thinner as it gets hotter. Thats why you have tons of oil pressure cold. I personally ran castol 20-50 in my trooper with a 2.8. When your wheelin you break oil down real quick. i use castrol 20-50 now in my Xj and love it. you do lose gas mileage so be advised. the 20-50 does slow things down since it is so thick. i seen a 2 mpg diff. in my daily driver going from 20-50 to 5-30 <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />. oh well i dont daily drive my rig though so thats another factor to look at. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> oh wow, ok, I had it wrong then. On one of those oil sites I read that the "W" in the weight stands for winter, and therefore the first number was the cold. Maybe I misread it as the first number andthat is what "W-40" means then.
1992 Land Rover Range Rover 3.9L V8
1995 Honda Passport V6 4x4
1989 Isuzu Trooper 2.8L V6 Manual ~Sold
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Re: To 10w40 or not to 10w40... that is the question...
[Re: isuzu95]
#639674
08/23/05 03:34 PM
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 457
Mudrunner
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i can see the 5-30 on the isuzu/acura engine but not the gm 2.8 he has. It is a stought motor.
92 Galant VR4 #501/1k - Turbo, All Wheel Drive with 4 wheel steering - Money eatin toy
89 Isuzu I-Mark RS sings to 7800 RPM - Daily Driver
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Re: To 10w40 or not to 10w40... that is the question...
[Re: icu_runnin]
#639675
08/23/05 06:45 PM
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 222
OP
Wheeler
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Well, I think I am just going to stick with the Maxlife 10w40. After visiting bobtheoilguy's site and reading, it looks like the sludge issue with 10w40 is a thing of the past. I would go to 20w50, but it is a daily driver and I use all the mpg I can get these days (my fillup was $47.18 yesterday)! Anyway, thanks for all the responses and giving me and anyone else who does a search some insight! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
1992 Land Rover Range Rover 3.9L V8
1995 Honda Passport V6 4x4
1989 Isuzu Trooper 2.8L V6 Manual ~Sold
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Re: To 10w40 or not to 10w40... that is the question...
[Re: thecure7]
#639676
08/23/05 06:51 PM
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 207
Wheeler
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Cure - FWIW I run 10-30 mobil 1 in my 2.8. I could not see how there could be any issues at all with this oil for this application.
Not sure if you were considering synthetic...another option. - Jackleg
I ain't real bright...
1990 Trooper LS, V6, Auto, 4door
132,000 miles 11/26/09
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Re: To 10w40 or not to 10w40... that is the question...
[Re: 1jackleg]
#639677
08/23/05 09:38 PM
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,203
Body Damage is Cool
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I run, and have run Castrol 10w30 in mine for 15 years. 2 changes ago i switched to high mileage. (207+) It is starting to burn a little, but when i checked it about 300miles before the change, it still looked pretty nice. -J <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />
Jordan Brown in Athens Georgia
The 2007 budget for the US Military covers Jack Bauer, two pistols and four billion rounds of ammunition.
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Re: To 10w40 or not to 10w40... that is the question...
[Re: thecure7]
#639678
08/24/05 01:31 AM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 427
Mudrunner
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hey Cure actually the 30 in 5w30 is when it is cold. The oil gets thinner as it gets hotter. Thats why you have tons of oil pressure cold. I personally ran castol 20-50 in my trooper with a 2.8. When your wheelin you break oil down real quick. i use castrol 20-50 now in my Xj and love it. you do lose gas mileage so be advised. the 20-50 does slow things down since it is so thick. i seen a 2 mpg diff. in my daily driver going from 20-50 to 5-30 <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />. oh well i dont daily drive my rig though so thats another factor to look at. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> oh wow, ok, I had it wrong then. On one of those oil sites I read that the "W" in the weight stands for winter, and therefore the first number was the cold. Maybe I misread it as the first number andthat is what "W-40" means then. The W does stand for winter and it does mean it's as thin as a 5 weigh when cold to let the oil flow better (gets to every thing quickly) in cold weather during startup, makes for less startup wear in cold weather, then as thick as a 30 weigh when hot to provide thicker protection when things are warmed up and oil has already reached everything.
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