yeah you'll need a big socket though, I think 27mm for that nut. I would buy every size 24-30 and return the ones that don't fit. Also, I just stuck the flange in a vise and hit it with a hammer vs. using a puller.

You planning on lifting your truck at all? if so, I would reconsider the expense and hassle of replacing that bearing when a retubed one piece driveshaft would be a better investment in the long term

also, if your rear DS uses spicer parts like mine, and has a strap-secured yoke with the 10 mm head bolts on each strap:

undo bolts securing carrier bearing
undo bolts at the yoke straps
use a hammer and screwdriver to hit the front half of shaft unseating the u-joint in the middle.
now pull the front-driveshaft-half out of the t-case by the slip yoke
leave rear half connected
do your bench repair then replace assembly

this method prevents you from having to break down the flange at the differential which in my opinion is next to impossible without destroying the hardware. Isuzu made the clearance between the pinion flange body and the hardware so close you can't put a socket over the nuts & bolts, but is too far away to try and spin one side and hope it will hold on the other. what you end up doing is just cursing and rounding the hardware.


CHRIS
98 Amigo, 92 Pup

need a pickup 1st gen fuel level sender