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 Timing a 2.6 with some ping
#645207
09/08/05 05:18 PM
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 15
OP
Need a Spot
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Hey, I recently finished rebuilding a 2.6L with my buddy in my 88 Trooper. He set up the timing without a light and after 200km or so I was noticing some pinging. I put a light to it and it said it was 40* <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> advanced, when it is supposed to be 12*. I adjusted the distributor until it could turn no more (If I turned it further I would not be able to tighten it), but only got it to 24* <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />. It is running much better, but this all concerns me.
Do I have to undo any vacuum lines when doing the timing? (The instructions under the hood say to unhook all vacuum lines then rehook them after timing is set)
Can these engines run at 40*?
Am I doing this wrong, cause I feel like I am. Please help.
PS- I searched and read alot on timing and the HB slipping, is this possible in my situation?
Thanks, Grant.
88 TrooperII
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Re: Timing a 2.6 with some ping
[Re: Moondawg]
#645208
09/08/05 06:35 PM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 898
Rock Warrior
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It's pretty common on higher mileage engines that the crank pulley will slip on the hub. It's pretty unlikely that you are running 40*. These engines can start to ping around 14*, and I've seen them ping at 12...
I'd take a look at the crank pulley and make sure it hasn't spun. If it has, you may look at replacing it to get an accurate idea of where the timing lies...
1995 Trooper LS auto 3.2 DOHC /w SOHC intake
1989 Trooper 2.6 auto
1989 I-Mark RS DOHC 1.6
1991 Stylus XS DOHC 1.8
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Re: Timing a 2.6 with some ping
[Re: Moondawg]
#645209
09/08/05 07:32 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 281
Mudrunner
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You probably just need to move your distributor a tooth or two. A timing light is for the fine tune, but the mechanical relationship of the crank, to the cam to the distributor has to be right to start with.
Set up your engine as if you were putting on a new timing belt; #1 cylinder top dead center, timing mark on the lower pulley "0", timing mark on the top gear with the dot matched up with the notch. Pop off your distributor cap and find the contact marked #1 on the inside of the cap. Make a mark on the outside edge of the cap that corresponds to the #1 contact.
Put the cap back on and make a mark on the outside of the distributor body that matches the position of the mark you made on the cap. Now pull the cap off and see if the rotor is centered on that mark. If it's not,
remove the bolt that holds the distributor in place and gently pull it straight out (let the rotor turn). Not all the way. Just enough so the gear on the end of the distributor shaft clears the gear on the end of the cam shaft. Then turn the rotor either clockwise or counter clockwise (depending on which way it was off) hold the rotor steady in the new position and slowly push it back in in until the gears mesh again. Release the rotor. Check the position of the rotor to the marks when you've pushed it all the way in. It might take a few tries to get it right, but take the time to do it. The valves don't like to clatter and will reward you with a time and money consuming rebuild of the head if you ignore their chatter.
If the harmonic balancer has slipped you will not be able to line up the timing marks on the harmonic balancer and the timing marks on the cam shaft timing belt gear in the #1 position, but that's assuming that it was assembled with the two of them lined up in the first place.
Of course if you do all the above and it all lines up and nothing else is wrong you need to change gas stations. All gasoline is not equal. The vac lines have some influence but not enough to cause excess ping.
The only two that need to be plugged for timing are the EGR valve and the vapor recovery.
'89 P'up, 2.6 I-Tec, 488,000 miles and done... gone to the great beyond
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Re: Timing a 2.6 with some ping
[Re: RT1]
#645210
09/08/05 09:43 PM
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 15
OP
Need a Spot
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Thanks RTI, Your thoughts are the same as my friends. I'll post the results once we confirm the solution. Thanks again everyone. Grant.
88 TrooperII
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Re: Timing a 2.6 with some ping
[Re: Moondawg]
#645211
09/09/05 04:30 PM
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 15
OP
Need a Spot
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Hello, Last night moved the dist. back one tooth and it solved all of the problems. She is now at set at 12* advanced. Thatnks again for your help <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />. Ever use a Thrush muffler before. If you haven't don't. I pulled the factory exhaust system last night. Put in fresh 2" straight back (no cat, we don't have emissions in Canada) and a muffler only to have it pretty loud when I started it up. I will probably put in a resinator next week to muffle it more. Grant.
88 TrooperII
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Re: Timing a 2.6 with some ping
[Re: RT1]
#645212
09/09/05 04:59 PM
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 287
Mudrunner
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You probably just need to move your distributor a tooth or two. A timing light is for the fine tune, but the mechanical relationship of the crank, to the cam to the distributor has to be right to start with.
Set up your engine as if you were putting on a new timing belt; #1 cylinder top dead center, timing mark on the lower pulley "0", timing mark on the top gear with the dot matched up with the notch. Pop off your distributor cap and find the contact marked #1 on the inside of the cap. Make a mark on the outside edge of the cap that corresponds to the #1 contact.
Put the cap back on and make a mark on the outside of the distributor body that matches the position of the mark you made on the cap. Now pull the cap off and see if the rotor is centered on that mark. If it's not,
remove the bolt that holds the distributor in place and gently pull it straight out (let the rotor turn). Not all the way. Just enough so the gear on the end of the distributor shaft clears the gear on the end of the cam shaft. Then turn the rotor either clockwise or counter clockwise (depending on which way it was off) hold the rotor steady in the new position and slowly push it back in in until the gears mesh again. Release the rotor. Check the position of the rotor to the marks when you've pushed it all the way in. It might take a few tries to get it right, but take the time to do it. The valves don't like to clatter and will reward you with a time and money consuming rebuild of the head if you ignore their chatter.
If the harmonic balancer has slipped you will not be able to line up the timing marks on the harmonic balancer and the timing marks on the cam shaft timing belt gear in the #1 position, but that's assuming that it was assembled with the two of them lined up in the first place.
Of course if you do all the above and it all lines up and nothing else is wrong you need to change gas stations. All gasoline is not equal. The vac lines have some influence but not enough to cause excess ping.
The only two that need to be plugged for timing are the EGR valve and the vapor recovery. There's no need to pull off the dizzy cap to set the rotor. There is a punch mark on the worm gear. Align the punch with the bump on the shaft. You may have to clean the shaft if it's sludged or carboned out to see the punch. To check externally if your HB has slipped. Put a long screwdriver in the #1 spark plug hole and turn the crank. Let the piston move the screwdriver. Given that the belt was aligned properly, when the mark on the cam sprocket lines up the screwdriver should stop going up. Pass the mark on the cam sprocket and the screwdrvier should start moving down. If it's still going up then your belt is probably off a tooth or so...
B.Y.E. ~ Back Yard Engineering 
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