I'm going to do the F-250 shock tower mod and get a set of longer shocks. I'm running rear toyota springs in the front with one more leaf added. I have about four inches of lift from stock. What shocks do you guys recommend. I've seen the page about Rancho's shocks but wondered what else you guys have tried that works with that setup. Thanks

I'm running Rancho 99261(same as 5012's)w/13.5" travel up front with ford towers. be sure to run bumpstops with them as not to rip them off. I am also using stock waggies up front with the axle moved 1?" forward...........Karl
poser pict:

I would mound the ford towers has high as posable, then measre your suspension fully colapsed and fully extended. then find the shock thats perfect.
I ran 9012s on mine all the way around, but now run the bilsteins 14" travel ones.
Shane

I don't mean to hijack this post. But I will be doing this soon, and am curious what you guys do with the front axle torque rod. Remove it completely? How's it affect braking? Thanks!

Torque rod gone. With decent springs, no effect on braking. With lousy springs.... dunno.

FWIW, my shock tower bottoms are about even with the top of my IFS frame (SAS). I really don't believe there is a cookie-cutter approach to locating them; your best bet is to pick the longest shock possible (I run Rancho 99012s), flex your suspension full compressed, compress your shock ALMOST fully (leave a margin of error), then use that to position the shock tower on the frame. Remember, just fully compressed both sides (such as "with no springs" compressed) is not the fully compressed position for the shock in the real world. The shock resides outboard of the bumpstop, and with one side compressed and the other fully extended the shock tower will need to be higher than you might think otherwise.

Yes, my shock towers protrude through the inner fender into the engine compartment (no body lift). You will have some cutting to do.

Be SURE to brace the back of it with wings. I used 3/16" steel to do this. My braces mount to the top of the motor mount bracket and the back of the tower, and the lower inside of the tower is welded to the vertical portion of same bracket (which I had boxed closed and flush with the frame vertical face after cutting off all the IFS hoohaw). They have never moved, never cracked. Very solid.

With stock push-pull steering, torque rod is fairly important. It helps control brake- and bump-steer and it helps to protect the steering J-arm from breaking.

With crossover steering, it really has no purpose, in fact, it lives right where the draglink wants to "cross over" from the steering box to the passenger side of the frame, so it has to be removed (or on a SAS, it was never there to begin with).

how about 13" or 15" travel BBCS shocks

found @ www.polyperformance.com

oh, you might wanna make sure the drive shaft has enough extension so it doesn't come apart when axle in full flex.

Thanks guys, appreciate the suggestions. I'd run a torque rod if you don't have high steer. I just cut the rod and spliced a piece of pipe in. Without it ya gotta remember to swerve a little it's kinda annoying. I need high steer though stock steering has its limits.