Hey guys. Still trying to get my 91' Monty running. Do you usually recommend buying a new ECU from Mitsubishi, sending out the old ECU for repair, or would it be better to swap one out from a junkyard? This last proposition has me worried if the junker was junked for said ECU!

If I find a junker, other parts recommended to keep on hand?

Thanks! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

cali or federal model (run vin at your local dealer to find out)? if its a cali version ive got a spare ecu that i could part with and id even through in the dizzy. but as for which to get, youll never beat new. but theyre very spendy... id go with a reman our used.

I am clueless as to which ecu I would need. I have no idea of what the difference is between cali or federal or what they even mean! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> I am definately interested in a swappable ecu for a 91' RS 3.0 automatic and can give you model/part numbers, VIN number. You can email me at
bluebirdacrefarm@yahoo.com
Thanks!

Remove the ECU (3 screws, 2 harness plugs) and find the part # on the top of the case. Once you remove the screws it may not be necessary to remove the connectors to see the number.

Frank

the easiest way is to take down your vin and call a local mitsu dealers service/parts dept. and ask them if its a california or a federal model. might want to ask if the ecu's are interchangable, my understanding is that they are not... but check anyways. the ecu's for a cali model are quite a bit more expensive wether or not their new, used or remaned. or you can drop the ecu and get the p/n and do the same... if its still there.

I've had the truck since 1991 and bought it new in NJ. I doubt it had California regs, but I will check with the dealer. (who is almost as clueless as I am <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> )

The numbers I have written down are: MD146946 / E2T35271A / 0213 But it's been so long since I wrote this info down I need to double check again.

I am so tired of trying to get this baby up and running! I have to fit working on it between a million other things. *sound of tiny violin playing pity music* <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> Thanks for your help.

I have a 1990 Montero and just sent the ECU to Automotive Computer Supply ECMs To-Go for free testing and possible rebuild. You may want to check the company's website for more details. BTW, I called three of their references and all said good things about them. They also have a good feedback rating on eBay.

Will let you know how things turn out. Good luck with yours.

Before you replace the ECU, make sure your ISC (idle speed control) is good. It's pretty well documented that if the ISC goes bad it can fry your ECU. To test the ISC go to this website http://www.stealth316.com/2-isc-iac.htm The website is for a Dodge Stealth, but the info also pertains to the Montero. Good luck

I didn't have any idling, engine or rough running problems before this engine quit. Do you think the ISC is still a possible culprit that might have fried the ecu? The truck just quit cold turkey and had run beautifully the day before.

Better to be safe than sorry. Do the resistance test on the ISC motor just to make sure.

The problem with the ECU may be due to leakage from one or more capacitors on the board, or another component. It's a simple fix for someone who knows what they're doing and will cost $100 to $150 to have an expert do it for you. If the board can't be repaired, you can buy a rebuilt one for about $300. Good luck.