In my post about the engine removal FrankR mentioned that there are tricks to reinstalling the motor, specifically to seating the torque converter..

Frank what is that trick? Oh yeah I asked the shop to use a bottoming tap to tap the head bolt holes for me, and told them why and they said they could do that for me...

Everyone else, please chime in with any tips or tricks you might have as well, Thanks...

I talked to the machine shop yesterday and it looks like I will either have eveything back from them today or Friday..

To catch people up that might not know. My motor had 320K miles on it and was burning oil, that wasn't a problm untill the balancer bolt loosened up a little and sheared off my woodruff key causing the balancer to free spin, after that I decided to rebuild it. I have had the block bored and the machine shop is installing the rotating assem. And I am doing everything else. The heads had a few little cracks in them so I got remanufactored ones from clearwater, and I'm getting a lot of other new parts to include as well.
Off the top of my head:
New timing set, including pulleys and woodruf key
New Water and Oil pumps
New head bolts
New harmonic ballancer assem, with new style bolt and washer
New motor mounts (the originals fell off as soon as I started to lift the motor <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> )
And a few other things, too bad none are off road things yet...

John -

It sounds like you are progreesing nicely - don't forget to install a new timing belt tensioner and spring.

When you install the torque converter on the input shaft of the transmission, you'll feel it seat against the shaft. Turn it by hand slowly with a little pressure and you'll feel it seat again as it slides solidly into place. When it's correctly seated, the engine will mate up with no gap between the bellhousing and the rear of the engine. If it doesn't want to go together with no gap, the torque converter isn't seated. It's much easier than it sounds - the important thing is to not force it.

Once you have the transmission and engine bolted together, the best way to install the converter bolts is by using a socket/ratchet on the crank bolt to turn the engine (clockwise when facing the engine from the front). As you turn the engine to a new bolt position, just let the ratchet hang from the crank bolt and it'll remain in place. If you position yourself just right, you can turn the engine without having to move around too much for each bolt you install.

Good luck,
Frank

If he has the engine out, why not mate them up first, then install? (Assuming the radiator is out, which it should be for servicing at the very least.)

I didn't go back and read if he had the transmission out or not. They can certainly be mated before installation.

Frank

No I don't have the tranny out, I didn't want to disconect the cooler lines. But if you think it will be easier to get it in that way I guess I can pull the tranny too. But no I didn't pull the radiator, so that would have to come out too I guess.

Actually it sounds easier to leave the tranny alone and mate it in the truck...


Frank - I am getting all new timing components including tensioner and all, but thanks for the advice above.

There's no need to pull the tranny. Since it's in the truck, it's easier to work with it rather than pull it - no problem at all - just jack up the front of the tranny a little for a better mating angle. After you get a few bolts in, let it back down so you can bolt up the engine mounts. Then you can install the upper bellhousing bolts. You'll figure it out as you go.

Remove the radiator so it doesn't get damaged.

Don't forget to install the plenum support and cable clamp on the rear of the driver side head before you put the engine in the truck.

Frank

Is that really needed, I was able to get it out without a problem..
Is the tranny cooler in the radiator or does it have a separate one? The main reasone I didn't pull the rad was because I assumed I would need to uncouple the tranny cooler lines, but I never really looked at it I was just getting the motor out..


I was planning on installing the plenum supports outside the truck but what is this cable clamp, are you refering to the thing holding down the wire loom? If so, then yeah I was planning on doing that as well, but thanks for the pointers. If the cable clamp you are refering to is not the one for the wire loom on the pasenger side then please explain it a little more for me.

Yeah, that's the wire clamp he's talking about.

I have done it several times in Gens I & II, without removing the radiator. It's a lot tougher in a Gen II, but is no big deal in a Gen I. Just be careful, maybe put a piece of plywood in there to keep from damaging the radiator.

Hi from Albuquerque <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />

I was referring to the clamp for the tranny kickdown cable. Maybe it goes on the block, though - memory's bad.

Frank

Thanks again Frank...

OK here is an update:
The whole bottom end is together, minus the timing gears...

The machine shop did the rotating assembly, and this weekend I did the oil pump & pick up, oil filter assem., rear main seal, oil pan, and water pump... I just need to wait for the parts to get in from MitsubishiParts.net; DHL shows it to arrive tomorrow.

Here is another question.. But I think I already know the answer... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />
When ordering parts I forgot that the head bolts had washers, so I didn't order new washers. Is it OK to use the old ones or is it just better to get new ones, and what is the part number for these washers?