Is it really seizing? If the bearing was truly seizing, then a garden hose flush is not going to fix it. That is why I am thinking that there is something else going on. Search here for "dampner" or "clutch dampner". The intermittant nature makes me think this may be the problem.

Michael

describe more exactly what the problem is

Ok lets try this again... Sometimes during or after wheeling it seems that the throwout bearing is binding or seizing or something on the input shaft, causing the clutch to slip or not engage at all... After getting the truck to some water and sticking a hose in where the clutch fork boot is and washing for a small amount of time (while working the clutch pedal in and out) the clutch resumes normal working condition... There is nothing wrong with any other part of the truck, since I drive it everyday and the only time this problem occurs is when or while I'm wheeling. I find it hard to believe that no one else has ever experienced this problem before... Thanks for the replys

This is still not clear to us.

Is the clutch pedal able to be moved at all or is it depressed/released with no change in clutch engagement?

Please describe the term "seized". This is usually reserved for bearings, but can be used in other context. I believe those of us above are looking at your description and believing that the outer race of the TO bearing is seized to the inner race via the rollers in the middle.

Your description is starting to make it sound like the bearing is either sticking on the input shaft and not sliding (which would cause a hard pedal if it is released, or no pedal if it is engaged.

The only other thing I can think of is that there is some sort of binding in the clutch fork/TO bearing assembly. Maybe it is on crooked? Maybe there is not enough lube where the bearing rides on the input shaft front housing? Maybe the spring is on wrong? Maybe the pivot point is binding? These are just all ideas. Heck, maybe the slave is sticky and for whatever reason it becomes irritated when wheeling.

Some more discription of what the pedal is doing would be super helpful.

Michael

Off road I'm sure you are using the clutch _much_ more than on road, yes ?

OK, brake and clutch fluid is hygroscopic, it absorbs water. When you compress the clutch fluid, it generates heat. Since you are using the clutch much more, then much more heat is being generated. When it gets hot enough, it boils the absorbed water out of the fluid, creating bubbles in the lines. These bubbles are what's messin' witch ya I bet. Out with the old fluid, and in with the new, from a NEW bottle, not one that's been sitting on the shelf in the garage for a year and a half.

OK this makes sense


this does not make sense. If the TO bearing was binding or siezing to the input shaft the pedal would be locked up or you'd need extra effort to push it. Is that what you mean?

How does a throwout bearing make a clutch slip? You could take your throwout bearing out of your trans and your clutch would still grip as tightly-- it has nothing to do with your clutch gripping, slipping or engaging. this is where I'm confused.

Oh wait, do you mean possibly that the TO bearing and shift block assembly is not retracting all the way when you left off the clutch and the presure plate has not engaged the disc causing it to slip?? Maybe I am following you now.

What about putting some more bolts in the dust cover to allow less space for mud to go into your bell. I know the dust cover on these engines have a few open bolt holes. i added a few bolts to mine to try and seal the whole way around.

WTH ????

Somebody go off in a huff ?

HaHa of course not... Seems people are not able to understand the problem so I'm not going to continue to waste forum space and other peoples time on something that isn't going to get resolved here... CPOM seems to be on the correct track though... The bottom line is the input shaft gets grit, mud, sand, gunk, and other forms of bullsh#t on it and doesn't allow the throwout bearing to return correctly on the input shaft causing the clutch fork to remain where the throwout bearing seized, binded, hung up, what ever you wish to call it... Thus leaving you with a slipping clutch due to the fact that the pressure plate stays pushed in, and all the while you can still have a normal pedal. Thanks for the replys though

This is not fresh. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />