I've also had good luck with Master inline fuel pumps. See the Turbo Bible post for model #'s. I think the 3.0 is a 45psi system, and I have a Master E8000 for the monster turbo I'm building. I currently (well, when it still ran) have a Master E2315 on the stock 85 turbo system. The tubular frame crossmember just behind the rear axle is a good mounting point for the pump, which needs to be below or near fuel level unless you use a booster pump. EFI pumps don't prime well with much lift, and sucking gas uphill is a sure recipe for vapor lock, especially since we are getting some weird fuel blends lately....

I mount my pump on the bottom the cargo space floor to get it as far up and out of the way from damage as I can and still be inline with the tank outlet and the line on the frame. I'm sure lower is better, but I know the setup I am using works.

In ten years of running the pump mounted like this it has never ôvapor lockedö If a mechanical pump can pull fuel from the tank when you are headed up a steep hill (vehicles nose is higher than the tank fuel in line is hot from the engine), IÆm sure my electric pump is ok with a 2 foot draw of non heated fuel.

Now the tank on the 2.6 does not have baffling, there are a couple of solutions. One is to make a surge tank and add a second pump. You could gain a bit of reserve capacity this way. It does add a lot of extra plumbing and another pump. IMHO this just gives you more parts to fail or leak especially in an accident.

Another is to cut the tank apart and add some baffles, seems like a lot of work.

My option is to ignore the issue, it only comes up when you are really low on fuel and go around a corner fast. I think I noticed it three times in ten years.

Another solution is to build a baffle into the pickup assembly. A small cup surrounding the pickup screen will do, make sure itÆs well supported by the flange. The small cup with a few opening in the bottom is what the Starion used from the factory. If I add anything to mine that would be my first choice.

Good luck,

Kevin

Yeah, that's probably a better idea than hacking up and modifying a gas tank. There are better things to do with that time.

Megasquirt has a section on external fuel pumps. It gives a lot of vehicles and models to choose from. Here is an excerpt from their manual:

http://megasquirt.info

You will need a high pressure pump with enough volume at your operating pressure to feed you engine under maximum load. Typical pressures needed in the neighborhood of ~45 psi for port fuel injection, ~10-20 psi for TBI injection. A port injection pump will work with TBI, but not vice-versa.

OEMs usually place pump inside the fuel tank. In an EFI retrofit it is generally easier to use an external fuel pump. Ford used external fuel pumps on 1989 era 150 trucks which may be a candidate for use. These are high pressure [port EFI] pumps that will work in most applications. Econoline vans have these as well.

The external pumps used in Ford F150 fuel injected trucks from the 89-93 model years are Delco EP286. At 12 volts, the operating pressure is 70-95 PSI with 36-40 gals per hour. The biggest Delco pump is the EP424, which is 75-90 PSI at 40 gals per hour. EP 268 is a GM# 25117086, EP 424 is a GM# 25176156."

The Carter pump #P70199 (the outlet is 7/16 standard pipe thread and the inlet is 15/32 clamped hose type fitting or 3/4 standard thread. The specs are 95-PSI max, 68-93 G/Hr wide open). This is the highest flowing Carter external fuel pump in the book. It will produce up to 95 psi, and crosses over to EP7107 at Kragen for about $80 (unfortunately one end does not come off like the Carter). You might want the Ford style pump EP7109 ($80). You will need this if you want to be able to modify ends to be 3/8".

Others have had luck using the external pump from various fuel injected VolksWagen models (87 VW Fox, for example). Part number is: Bosch 0 580 254 957 reportedly rated at 90 GPH@ 70PSI, you might find them for about $130 new from http://www.germanautoparts.com/. This pump consists of a fuel pump, filter, and an "accumulator". You can leave the accumulator in place since it does not affect the running volume or pressure, and on used pumps they are often rusted so you might not want to mess with it.

I've got a complete lwb (rusty but a runner). The fuel pump doesn't pose much problem and I'm not afraid of swapping all the electrics (maybe I should be). I'm mainly concerned whether or not everything else will be a bolt on process.

Thanks for all the great info!

Dave

Boy, if it was me,
(oops, it was last year!)
I'd find a v6 with a blown motor for almost no money
(they seem to grow on trees)
and put your good v6 into it.
Or find a good SWB v6 frame, and put your good swb body onto it. But keep the v6 harness...

I looked into this, and it's SO MUCH hassle for a truck that's pretty readily available for not much money at all...

my 2c
Toby