OK to keep the linking alive in this thread I was putting everything together and putting the engine in after a rubuild..

I have everything in, all the wireing hooked up correctly and It won't start...

I did make one mistake (or more but I will just tell you about this one <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />) and that was when I installed the alternator I forgot to hook up the electrical connections on the back of it prior to hooking up the battery.. Needless to say a little welding was done when that damn thing arched... I quickly pulled power away and connect the alt, then reconnected the battery...

But then I attempted to start it and the Fuel pump doesn't sound like it is running, I tried to listen for the whirring noise from the filler cap and there was non.. Could the arching off the alt cable popped a fuse or something? Or did the fuel pump decide to stop working in the month and a half it took me to get it done?

Plus I have an extra bracket, and not quite sure where it goes I have no extra nuts or bolts so it must go somewhere that had an existing bolt, just not sure where, pics comming soon...

1) You may have fried the alternator - take it to a shop and have it tested.

2) Check the 40A and 100A fuses in the box next to the battery - better yet, check all 3 of those fuses. You also have 3 or 4 sub-fusible links in the box next to the main fuse box next to the battery.... check those.

You may have the distributor set incorrectly - it's easy to do. With the engine on TDC (compression stroke) the rotor should point toward an imaginary spot in the middle of the firewall - not at the #1 spark plug tower.

If you don't find the problem, post back and I'll dig a little further.

Frank

The fuel pump should only run when it sees a signal from the dist. So if the engine is not running you wont hear the pump.

If it cranks check for spark first (after you checked the fusable links).

Kevin C

Frank, Oh ye of little faith.. I actually followed all your steps on setting up the dizzy, that were in another post, so I know that is good or at least very close...

Also I know that I do not hear the Fuel pump, but I was unsure if there was a fuse that runs to it that I could have blown.. I will check those fuses you mentioned above soon though..

Here is that bracket though plus a few misc photo's:




So what do you guys think that is from or where does it go?? Again I don't have any extra bolts/nuts so whatever it bolted to probably has the bolts/nuts in it already

My manual states that if you open the filler cap and turn the key to the on position you should hear the pump, whirring noise should be heard. Is this only for a second or wil it do it constantly? Working by myself it is tough to turn the key on the run and check for noise because of the way it is parked, I have to run around the passenger side to get to the back of the truck to listen for it.

Hold on did I plug the dizzy in??? let me go check that...

That's the alternator stay bracket - you can see it in this picture, peeking out from under the intake duct:



Frank

I hate you for that picture...

HOLY CRAP!!! It's alive!!! I just forgot to plug the dizzy in, doh!!!

This thing smells like a$$ though!!! I let it run for a few seconds heard a lot of racket and smelled crap and shut it down.

Is there a way to tell if it is pumping oil? I tried to prime the oil pump by running the starter with the injectors unpluged and no spark plugs, dizzy, etc. I thought that would do it, but there is a lot of racket in the motor. How long untill the lash adjuster adjust?

Wow, Frank that is beautiful!! Realy!!! I thought mine look clean, but wow!!!

Thanks for the info on that bracket I will try to see if I can get it to work there...

OK just went out and started on more time the racket sounds like a spark plug is arching or something like that, it is a ticking sound that sounds like arching so maybe something isn't tight in the ignition area... Also the smell is crap burning off the exhaust, I guess touching the exhaust with greasy hands when working can cause that.. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

MontyMcV - it's an old pic - after the trip to Colorado I may never get all of the dirt off/out of it. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

John - If the oil pressure gauge is showing good pressure, you should be ok, but after you have pressure and the engine is ok, run it at a fast idle - maybe 2,000 rpms - from start-up until about 10 minutes after it warms up - then change the oil and filter. You will probably have some valve ticking at first.... it should go away in a few minutes.

I can tell you from experience that loose ignition wires can sound like valve ticking.... particularly the #6 plug wire. Not all of them sound like the typical coil snap sound.

Congratulations! Sounds like another one lives! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Frank