This is what mine looks like by using a crap load of parts cleaner, remeber it had 320K mile and was blowing oil out everywhere before the rebuild. Did you actually polish yours? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I will do that later when it gets a little darker here, so I can see if it is arching. I plan on getting it up to temp and changing the oil tomorrow.. I am actually supposed to be working right now, but that is my bosses fault for letting me work from home this week, and I am soo close to getting this thing running, I can't even think about work! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Frank,

I just went out and looked again, I don't have an oil pressure gage... But is it OK to assume that if the oil light on the dash goes off after starting it, then pressure should be good?

Thanks for answering all these questions...

It looks mighty good - particularly if it's running nicely - that's all that really matters.

Mine looks the way it does (did, actually) because I painted and clearcoated the parts - didn't have much better to do at the time and wanted to win the poser prize. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Good on ya - when you start driving it, take it up to 30 and let it coast down a few times - then up to 40 and coast down a few times - then 50/60 same way - helps to seat the rings. Then when you think it's ok (at least 25 miles of the ups and downs) run the everlovin' screamin' Hell out of it for one good run and let it coast down and cool off before you shut it down. That oughta get those rings seated and you'll find out real soon if you've got a good engine.

Break in's up to you - everybody does it differently, but I don't believe in babying them after the acceleration/coast routine as long as the temperature's ok, oil pressure's up and it sounds right.... run 'em and teach 'em who's boss. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Frank <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Yes - as long as the switch is hooked up to the wire that runs to the gauge.... you should see the oil pressure light come on before you start it and go off when it starts. You can hook up a mechanical gauge to the switch port on the filter housing if you want to see the pressure - you don't have to actually install the gauge - just use it to verify pressure.

Frank

Here's one guy's opinion on break in:

MoTo Man

Use your judgement, but don't baby it too much... let it coast down and cool a little each time before the next acceleration run.

Frank

Thnaks Frank,

The oil light (as well as many others) does come on before it is started and then they go off after it starts, so oil pressure should be good then...

I do have a breakin question for you though.. I know what you have writen before and I have read other things so let me ask you your oppinion on what I was going to do, I am second guessing myself after reading your posts above...

I was planning on doing the 30 - coast, 40 - coast, 50 -coast, 60 - coast, stop then full throtlle run it to whatever it gets to then coast again. but I was planning on doing the first oil change after that...

But, your post above however recommends changing the oil after it heat cycles the first time before even doing any road testing. Could I wait to change the oil, or should I just do it a couple times? Once before the road test, then once again after at like 100 or so miles.. Or should I just do it after the road test, like about 50 or so miles?

I like to change the oil and filter after the first fast idle warm up to remove any residue from the rebuild. I like to change the oil and filter again after 200 miles just because.... oil is cheap and engines aren't. Some folks will not change either oil or filter until 500 miles - the choice is yours, but after spending the time and money to do a rebuild, the oil and filters seem like cheap insurance to me. You could certainly extend the second change to 500 miles if you wanted to, but I sure would recommend the first change immediately after the initial fast idle warmup.

Frank

Well will do then, I have a new filter and a case of oil sitting right next to the truck now... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Your right however oil and filter are much cheaper then this rebuild was. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

Again thanks fro the help, but I have another on for you...

What connects to the vacuum line comming off the intake?

A vacuum line goes from there to the lower port on the solenoid purge valve located on the driver side fender below the purge canister - directly across from the tube in your picture.

Frank