Now that makes me wonder where that line went, I know if I am working on something I label the other end and have it sit there, but I can't seem to find this line anywhere. I guess I need to buy a new one, Oh well.

Thanks again for all the help Frank!

And all the others who have helped me through this, Thanks too...

John

When you change the oil and filter, cut open the filter and let us know if you see any debris. Some people report a lot of metalic particles in the filter after the first oil change. It would just be nice to know what you find in the filter. Maybe some gasket material? Oh, and what kind of oil are you using? Brand and weight. Oh, and what type of filter too.

Thanks

The pump should only run for a second if its like the other Mitsubishis I have worked on. Helps to have two people. Curious what manual you have, sounds like a HANES.

I checked my 89 factory manual and did not see that test in it.

Good to hear its running.

Kevin

Kevin,

Yeah I have the Haynes manual, most of the time it is accurate but there are times that I would like it to be more specific...


OK all, I have another problem....

Today was the day I was going to follow Frank's recommendation of letting it fast idle get up to temp and shut it down and drain the oil. Well I started to do this, and as it was running for a couple minutes I saw coolant leaking under the truck, behind the motor <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />

Shut it down to check it out... Lucky it was just a loose hose clamp at the heater core <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />, fixed it, topped off the rad, and started to try to get it up to temp again.

After about 3-4 minutes at 2000 RPM's the temp gage was about there, then it sputtered a little and shut down. It was running smooth, I just made a comment about look how smooth it is running <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />, then just sputtered and shut down and would not restart.... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" /> WTF!!!! I am searching other threads now, because I know I read about a problem like this not too long ago...

Also there is a lot of arching at the coil, it did it last night, I put dielectic grease on it and it stopped, but as it was getting up to temp it started doing it again. Could this have caused the problem??? What should I be checking?

the coil snap is there when trying to fire so I know I am getting spark, so that leaves fuel and air... Air should not be a problem but I may be wrong???

So I guess that leaves fuel... This thing sucks!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

It could have shut down from an electrical malfunction, but it could have been an ECU gremlin due to the rebuild. Mine just flat quit on me once during a break in run on coast down, but it re-started immediately and never did it again. I wouldn't worry about it happening once.

The coil arcing is a problem - could be a bad coil. Remove the connector and test the primary side (the 2-prong blade terminals). Resistance measured across the terminals should be .72-.88 ohms. Now measure resistance between the (+) side of the primary (that's the vertical blade) to the high voltage secondary terminal (where the coil wire goes). The standard value is 10.3k-13.9k ohms.

Check the resistance of the coil wire (end-to-end) and the spark plug wires:

coil = 3k ohms
#1 = 9k ohms
#2 = 8.5k ohms
#3 = 10k ohms
#4 - 9k ohms
#5 = 12k ohms
#6 = 10k ohms

Those are approximate readings for the wires - within 5-10% should be fine.

Frank

Strange, I went and was playing with it, pulled a plug to test for spark at the plugs and it was sparking, and there was fuel because I smelled it. dipped my finger in the cyl and there was a little unburned fuel in there. So that left me to air, I played with the trottle blade while my future mother-in-law was attempting to start it. after a few tries we got it started again. I guess my idle air valve was acting up or something....

Oh Crap I just realized I never set the timing up correctly.. got to go grab the timing light I will keep you updated...

Don't forget to ground the connector on the firewall before you set the timing.

Frank

That was the part I forgot, thanks... Plus my plastic gage pointing to the hub/balancer is warped so I need to measure this thing to find 5* BTDC... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

BTW, it it the plug under the miper motor on the driver side, the one that when you take the cap off you see a wire and a purple tab like thingy???