OK, I see I misread it - didn't see the "and".... thought it might be a quiz. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Frank

Yeah they might want to add the Ask/Quiz Frank forum, actually isn't that this one? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

I'm like Will Rogers - "I only know what I read in the papers, and that's an alibi for my ignorance."

Actually, I've already been through most of the 3.0L engine problems and it helps the learning curve to just tear it apart and see how it works.... how it broke... and if you can fix it. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> What a hobby. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

Frank

Ok, 0 for how many now? I tested the IAC as described in the link above and it read 28.5 accrossed all the pins they recommended testing... Actually some fluctuated between 28.4 and 28.5 and another fluctuated between 28.5 and 28.6 so I say they are good according to that test, I have not pulled it apart yet, I still need the impact tool. But I guess we will see how it looks in there when I get that far.

Oh BTW, I think I might have damaged the IAC myself, well due to my lack of supervision, while the motor was apart. I had a buddy over helping me clean up parts and things and he used brakeclean to clean the uppper intake and throttle body. Yes, this includes spraying brakeclean into the IAC passages in front of the throttle blade and letting it sit in there, this is why when I pulled it off the other day is was all gumed up and really nasty looking...

I have read that you should not use solvents, what could they do to it?

I don't know - maybe melt the plastic - I wouldn't think it would be good for valve stem seals, though - if it got that far.

Frank

Sorry, I missed this the first time 'round. Check the TPS values:

1) Remove the TPS electrical connector
2) 4 pins on the TPS are 1,2,3,4 (L-R)
3) Resistance between 1&4 should be 3.5-6.5K ohms
4) Resistance between 1&3 should change smoothly and proportionately as the throttle valve is opened from closed to WOT
5) Resistance between 1&2 should be 0 ohms (conductive) with accelerator pedal released, infinite ohms (non-conductive) with accelerator pedal depressed. If you flunk this test, you'll have to adjust the TPS clocked position.

There's also a test for the fixed SAS, but let's leave that for later.

If you still haven't found a suspect, test for the ECU TPS voltage:

1) ECU terminals are 1-12 (L-R, top row) and 13-24 (L-R, bottom row).
2) Ignition switch "ON", but don't start the engine
3) probe wires to terminal 19 & 24 - voltage should be between 0.4-1.0v. If it's out of range, check the TPS harness (wiggle it to see if the voltage signal changes).

That'll keep you busy for a bit.... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Frank

This was done with the motor disassembled, and it was just used to clean the upper intake and trottle body (+many other external parts that were coated in years of oil crud buildup), there should be no way for it to have gotten to the valve stem seals...

It sure will...

I actually don't think I will be able to get to it until next month at this point.. I am getting married on Sunday and between now and then we are going to be busy...

To bad I didn't get the monty running reliably though, the reason I was rushig to get done was because we wanted Maries mom to drive it when she came out to stay with us, since it was her truck for the past 14 years prior to us getting it. We thought she would appreciate driving it again but now without the oil burning issues it had when she used to own it, plus she would be familiar with it and we wouldn't worry too much with her driving in a strange city and learning a new vehicle at the same time. Well she has been with us for 2 weeks watching me try to get this thing going and will be renting a car tomorrow. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

Thanks again for the help, and I will check the TPS when I get the time. Would a faulty TPS cause the issues I described above? Or could it just need adjustment?

I suppose either could cause a problem - it could be that an incorrect reading in the 1-2 switch can be corrected by a throttle cable adjustment.

Frank

Hold on cable adjustment? I have a question about that... I never loosened the cables, I just unbolted them at the brackets and moved them brackets and all out of the way. Then reinstalled the brackets in the same spot (I scored everthing to be sure they would go back in the same spot). I don't remember if there was slack on the cables before removing everything but there is slack on them now...

Could this be the problem???

Please say yes!!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />