1) Remove the TPS electrical connector
2) 4 pins on the TPS are 1,2,3,4 (L-R)
3) Resistance between 1&4 should be 3.5-6.5K ohms[color:"red"] good [/color]
4) Resistance between 1&3 should change smoothly and proportionately as the throttle valve is opened from closed to WOT[color:"red"] good [/color]
5) Resistance between 1&2 should be 0 ohms (conductive) with accelerator pedal released, infinite ohms (non-conductive) with accelerator pedal depressed. If you flunk this test, you'll have to adjust the TPS clocked position.[color:"red"] This is where it comes into a little problem I think... Not 0 ohms, actually after clocking it the least I could get was 30 ohms, but when the throttle is pressed it does open. Is that bad? Originally it was reading about 1830 ohms...[/color]

There's also a test for the fixed SAS, but let's leave that for later.

If you still haven't found a suspect, test for the ECU TPS voltage: [color:"red"] I tried this after getting the TPS as low as possible as stated above [/color]

1) ECU terminals are 1-12 (L-R, top row) and 13-24 (L-R, bottom row).
2) Ignition switch "ON", but don't start the engine
3) probe wires to terminal 19 & 24 - voltage should be between 0.4-1.0v. If it's out of range, check the TPS harness (wiggle it to see if the voltage signal changes).
[color:"red"]My voltage was .166V, this is well below the range, this is even after wiggling harness and cables... [/color]

That'll keep you busy for a bit.... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Frank