Thanks for all the help guys...

I will try this test tomorrow, it sounds simple enough anyway...

I will let you know the results, thanks again...

Is it possible to dissassemble the TPS and clean it with electrical parts cleaner?

Not really Winston: Typically the wiper part of the poteniometer wears out or the resistor goes south. The only time i was able to accomplish that, was when someone steam cleaned their engine and forced water in.
Conner

My results are in red below.


I also checked the voltage to the TPS Y/R wire at the ECU and it still read 4.67, rulling out a bad wire not getting the voltage to the TPS. I also didn't do any of the other tests because I thought they were dependant on the first set of tests. So does this make it a bad ECU?

If I understand the test method Conner gave you, it does sound like the ECU is not providing the correct voltage to the TPS. Have you tried cleaning/tightening the ECU connection to body/chassis ground?

Frank

The ECU (or at least that one wire that grounds to that ECU mounting screw) was grounded when testing it under the hood, but when I dropped the ECU to test it there I didn't remount that wire and got the same reading.

Or, is there another ground I am missing?

I have not checked to see how it's grounded, but I suspect there's a black wire coming out of the ECU connector harness that goes to body ground - maybe one from each connector harness.

Frank

John: That portion of the test is for the idle switch. This tells the ECU whether the throttle is opened or closed. What is confusing here, is that the wiring schematic shows 12 volts going to the switch while the testing procedure in the FSM shows 4 volts or higher as ok. finish with the complete tests and let me know results.
Thanks
Conner

Conner,

I finally had a chance to get back to checking this thing out and I am still a little baffled...

My results are in red below.

You mentioned in the post above that the FSM shows anything over 4 volts is good on the Y/R wire.
So I am unsure if the test failed, the numbers for the Y/R wire test matched the top proving the switch opens without much resistance, but the numbers definitly were not in range on the last test of the G/W wire they started at .687, no mater what movement of the TPS (clocking it), and ramped up to around 4.9x volts, the ramp is smooth but not sure it the numbers being off are that bad???

Also when clocking it it is a pain in the <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" /> to get it calibrated, the thing jumps around like crazy... Are these signs of a dead TPS?

John: If it is jumping that bad, i would replace the TPS. What was your original problem? Or i should ask what is it doing now? There is too much to comb through on this post.
Good luck
Conner