What do you guys use to spray the oil?

I use this stuff my dad gave me called wire rope and chain lube. It's a tacky oil which comes in a spray can, I love it. He has this crap by the case so I always grab a couple cans whenever I'm over there. I spray this on the underside of my bed, inside fender wells, and also into every hole there is in my frame. Good thing for me is that this stuff doesn't drip off the truck into my white concrete driveway. I once saw a can of similar stuff at Home Depot, but I can't seem to find it anymore.

I live in Northern Ontario where the roads are heavily salted for 5 months out of the year. Drive a 1990 extended cab 4X4 that is solid as a rock.
Here's my secret , go to WalMart purchase a few tubes of their Tech-2000 grease (purple tube), it's cheap and extremely sticky , best grease I've been able to find for drip free home brew. Next get some cheap engine oil , even used stuff is okay.
Now sneak into the kitchen , borrow your wifes 300 dollar Moulinex processor/mixer , or if you don't want an instant divorce you could purchase a cheap mixer for 10 bucks at WalMart. Blend grease and oil into a thick consistent blend of goo , pour into a Shutz gravel guard gun (air operated) and proceed to spray inside frame rails/fenders/rocker panels/firewall/inside doors/hinge areas/ etc etc.
Rocker panels are very important areas , if your Toy doesn't have access plugs you can go to any automotive supplier and get some , drill proper size holes in door pillars and rocker panels , attach a hose to the nozzle of the gun ,spray liberally while moving the hose up/down/around spray the heck out've them , do the same into the frame rail access plugs.
This mixture is drip free and will last several years before having to re-apply , except in areas that are prone to heavy debris spray from the tires. I do the outside of my frame and underneath the box yearly.
My doors and fenders are original from 1990 , only have one little spot of surface rust beside my door handle.....not too shabby eh!.....and NO my truck is NOT for sale <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I like your idea for rust prevention. I don't have access to a compressor or a spray gun though. Do you have any suggestions on what I could use?

With the ATF I use a plastic spray bottle...used or new.

Run the vehicle up on ramps...usually the back...so the oil will run down the seams in the doors...rails...frame...etc.

I usually get under and look for ANY holes...espec rust holes...a spray INSIDE everything.

The oil runs down into the same places the water does...if it's there first...the water is SOL.

I do this where some drips on the ground won't matter...clean up what you see outside after a few days.

Once you oil in the fall...it usually takes very little to refresh some areas each year.

I've used solvent based paints as sold by Sears and JCWhitney that are supposed to stop rust. The Sears stuff was sold thru their car restoration catalog and was the best stuff...maybe $35 a quart. The other is almost as good...neither works 100%. Main thing is prep...getting ALL the scale loose...espec any pitted places. If you have water getting in from behind...where you have a hole in the metal...a pinhole...it won't work.

por 15 works if you READ the directions. Its very very finicky stuff you gotta have a completly clean metal surface there cant be any paint on it at all for it to work properly. Yeh sure you can put it on over rust n crap but it works best on cleaned metal. Its UV sensitive though so you gotta get a sealer from them too. But if done properly itll give you lasting results.

Hey CoryC85, the stuff you might be refering to may be Chain/cable wax. A company called Maxim makes a realy good chain wax and can be had at most motorcycle/ATV shops. It has a parifin base IIRC and builds up during application. Could work well for rust prevention. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

man i can get chain wax for cheap since im a mechanic at a bike shop. yesss. lol

I opted for Rust Bullet instead of POR-15. Too early to tell whether or not it has done the job, but application was a bit more simple than POR-15. It was still pretty expensive stuff though.

I've lived in the midwest all my life. I've seen people use POR-15 here, but it doesn't seem to work so well, and not enough for me to want to try it. My trick is to spray with rubberized undercoating, then coat with oil after the undercoating has dried. The undercoating soaks up the oil and stays moist and gives the oil something to hang on to. I've gone 3-4 years before having to re-oil and it works GREAT! I don't recommend just undercoating without oil though. The undercoating by itself will get brittle, crack, trap dirt and moisture, and flake off. If anyone has had oil leaks forever, such as the oil pan, you've probably noticed how nice the paint was under the leak, yet rusty and crusty outside of the leak area (assuming the leak started back when the paint and metal were still nice looking to begin with).