Ok, with all plugs removed simultaneously...

#1 140psi
#2 160psi
#3 160psi
#4 175psi

also noticed, once again, I built up a considerable amount of pressure in the coolant system just from turning over a cold engine. this doesn't seem normal to me? possible indication of a blockage?

second, I performed a coolant pressure test. pumped the radiator up to 10psi and left it there for over 5mins. No noticable pressure drop on the guage (even with all spark plugs still removed). Repeated this test twice, both times, no indication of leakage.

At this point, I'm starting to lean away from the blown head gasket. What do you guys think?

-Rob

You can take your rad in and have it tested with a high pressure system , it will find any blockage where just a garden hoes won't.I had a rad tested on an older vehicle one time , the garden hose worked , but I still had problems so I took just the rad in , and they said it was blocked up pretty good.They put very high pressure through it for a bit , hooked it up to water again and tested it again and it was fine , no more problems <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Rob-

Just drop the $100 and put a radiator in it. For what you will spend for a new Modine, it is not worth the test, clean, fix route. If it is still the factory radiator, it probably needs to be replaced anyway.

Michael

**Update <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />

Well, I ordered one of those $100 Radiators from RadiatorBarn.com. Got a dual core from an automatic and installed it this past weekend.

Still looks like I'm experiencing the same problems. We took the Trooper out last night to run some errands around town. 2-3 short 5-10minute trips and once we got back to the house, I noticed, while the coolant did not overflow, it had filled up the overflow container from the min line to way past the max, almost to the top of the container.

I also played with the old radiator once I had it out. put the garden hose, full force, in the filler neck. all the water poured out the bottom, none from the top... indicating there probably was no blockage from the radiator.

Any other helpful insight? the coolant pressure test and cylinder pressure test all were normal likely indicating there is no head gasket leak. any other thoughts at what could be the cause of this accumulation of extra pressure?


-Rob

Have you been experiencing the problems since you installed the new head? There is a particular orientation of the head gasket that looks right but is not. It blocks a coolant passage. Thing is if you didn't know to look for it, you may not have known.

I hope I'm not right. I hope it's something a whole lot easier than having to pull the head again.

Joe

can you elaborate on that? seems like it can only go one way, with the locating dowel holes being larger and the general shape of it.


I'm glad you brought this up because I've been really curious about what I saw when I pulled my stuff apart - the HG water passages around the chambers are much smaller than whats on the head & block and does dam it off some:

and on the exhaust side, my Felpro gasket completely blocks off the smaller water passages in between chambers:


whats the reason for this? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

I spoke with Jerry this afternoon and I eveidently got my info wrong. Jerry is going to read this thread and see what he can come up with.

Joe

No not really. Problems started about a month or two after the new head installation. during that time, she daily drove it 20+ interstate miles to work and back without problem. Then one day, this started and we haven't had much luck with it since.

-Rob

HEY ROB ,,FIRST IF THAT HEAD IS THAT NEW YOU SHOULD HAVE A MORE EVEN COMP READING 140 TO 175 IS PRETTY WIDE FOR A NEW HEAD , EVEN THOUGH IT MAY RUN OK,I DON,T THINK YOU HAVE A HEAD GSKT PROB, THIS IS GOING TO BE TRICKY TO DO, I HOLLER AT PEOPLE ALL THE TIME FOR DOING IT BUT YOU HAVE TO BE VERY CAREFULL, WHILE THE ENG IS COLD PULL ALL THE PLUGS AND COAT THE THREADS WITH ANTISIZE BE LIBERAL , YOU CAN WIPE IT OFF LATER , PUT EM BACK IN AND START THE ENG AND LET IT WARM UP TO NORMAL TEMP NOW CAREFULLY PULL THE PLUGS OUT , ALL OF THEM AND SCREW IN AN ADAPTER THAT YOU CAN PRESSUREIZE EACH CYL TO AROUND 150-160 PSI THE HIGHER THE BETTER , ONE CYL AT AT TIME ON TDC PUT THE TRANS IN FORTH GEAR ,SO THE ENG WONT TRY AND SPIN OVER , NOW WITH THE RAD CAP OFF AGAIN BE CAREFULL , SEE IF YOU CAN HEAR OR SEE ANY BUBBLES OR HISSING COMING FROM THE TAILPIPE, INTAKE SYSTEM OR SEE IT IN THE RAD NECK , IT REALLY SOUNDS LIKE THE HEAD IS OPENING UP AND PRESSURISNG THE SYSTEM WHEN IT GETS HOT, THE HEAD GSKT WOULD NEVER LASTED THIS LONG IF IT HAD BEEN MISS INSTALLED , YOU WOULD HAVE OIL AND AND WTR EVERYWHERE, ALLSO WHEN YOU FILL THE SYSTEM BE SURE THE HTR VLV IS ALL THE WAY TO THE HOT SIDE THIS CAN CAUSE AN AIR POCKET BUT I DON,T THINK THAT IS YOUR PROB, ESP WHEN IT HEATS UP THAT FAST AND IS OVERFLOWING THE CATCH TANK, ANOTHER THING HOW OLD IS THE RAD CAP , IT SHOULDNT, MAKE IT RUN HOT ,BUT IF DEFECTIVE IT CANNOT CYCLE BACK AND FORTH TO THE RAD LIKE IT SHOULD, PUMPING AIR INTO THE BOTTLE AND PULLING FLUID BACK IN , BE CAREFULL AND DON,T GET BURNED . FOLLOW MIKES ADVISE ABOUT THE THROTTLE OPENING JERRY

Thanks Jerry, I'll see what I can come up with after I locate a leakdown guage.

and yes, we replaced the radiator cap before the new radiator, it is brand new also.

-Rob