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 Re: To swap a chassis or not to swap a chassis?
[Re: Xanatos]
#658755
10/23/05 08:18 PM
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 33
Getting the Wheeling Fever
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You have to do some serious thinking about it.. but I would say "just do it" if you think you want to.. I did a body swap onto a different frame now im going to be swapping the other frame in within the next year probably. If you have the time and the space and the parts, you cant put on a price on what you will learn by taking it all apart and building it back up.
1991 Trooper 2.8, 5spd - waiting for a different frame and tranny
1992 Rodeo 3.1, 5 spd - 1 inch between me and the headliner
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 Re: To swap a chassis or not to swap a chassis?
[Re: FEF]
#658756
10/23/05 08:39 PM
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 33
Getting the Wheeling Fever
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I
If you want something really cool, have the frame galvinized.
I was considering this but probably too cost prohibitive.. what would be a reasonable price?
Next best, IMHO, UV protected POR-15. It's tough stuff, too. For the hollow sections, tie string or wire to a large shop rag, dip it in the paint, then pull the string through the tube. Do it a few times, and you'll get a good coat inside the box. I like Hammerite, too. It's pretty tough.
Now thats a good idea, ive been trying to figure out how I can protect the inside of the frame, and still do in my garage. The only problem is how would I be able to clean and prep the inside properly for it to work (much of the factory finish remains, with surface rust along the bottom and some dirt).. been meaning to start a thread about this in tech
1991 Trooper 2.8, 5spd - waiting for a different frame and tranny
1992 Rodeo 3.1, 5 spd - 1 inch between me and the headliner
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Re: To swap a chassis or not to swap a chassis?
[Re: prong]
#658757
10/27/05 04:44 PM
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 172
Wheeler
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I
If you want something really cool, have the frame galvinized.
I was considering this but probably too cost prohibitive.. what would be a reasonable price?
Next best, IMHO, UV protected POR-15. It's tough stuff, too. For the hollow sections, tie string or wire to a large shop rag, dip it in the paint, then pull the string through the tube. Do it a few times, and you'll get a good coat inside the box. I like Hammerite, too. It's pretty tough.
Now thats a good idea, ive been trying to figure out how I can protect the inside of the frame, and still do in my garage. The only problem is how would I be able to clean and prep the inside properly for it to work (much of the factory finish remains, with surface rust along the bottom and some dirt).. been meaning to start a thread about this in tech It might require some testing, but I've had some good luck with some etching type chemicls. Thinking more... POR-15 type stuff stick pretty well to most any clean surface. Power sprayers, and other cleaning chems might be well enough to get it to stick well. As for the galv... That's like the Holy Grail of frame finishes. It will not be cheap, but if done right, it should out live us all. IMHO
"Stubig" - '72 416.141 (U1100) Unimog
"Sassy" - '05 KLR650
"Brody" - '04 Rodeo (It's my wife's, really)
"Candy" - '02 TDI New Beetle (yes, a family of 4 fits inside)
"Twinkie" - '72 Revcon 250 (converting from Olds 455 to 6.5L Diesel)
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