But it doesn't act like a clogged fuel filter. I have had a couple cars with a clogged filter and it acts differently than this. I might change it if the MAF doesn't help it.

but if you do, you'll know for sure whether that was it.

clogged fuel filter will stall the engine at low RPMs at a stop, an uphill, a side hill, a down hill, a abrupt take-off, an abrupt stop, a fast corner, and a long stoplight. it may also cause shuddering at all these points and loss of power steering and/or a/c.

I have changed my fuel filter twice, first time was when I got the vehicle and it had 60k miles. Fuel filter was very clogged up, it's a wonder the engine still ran.

Second time was at about 90k miles, when I tore the engine apart. Again it was pretty clogged, not as bad as the first time.

I don't remember what the suggested interval is for changing it but I would change it just to be safe, if I were you. Every time someone asks me to help them do a tune-up on their car before a long road trip or something, the fuel filter is one of the items I replace, and so far every time I have changed one in every car, it has been very clogged up, leading me to believe that the average driver does not change their fuel filter as often as they should. Just a thought...

or the fuel quality is [email]c@#p!![/email]

That seems likely...

OK, I thought I had it fixed again but heck no. Its back. I checked all the MAF connections where it plugs on and it looks fine. Last night it did the same stuff. It starts fine and then goes to an extrememly low idle and dies. Any gas and it dies. After starting about 10 times it will finally keep running at that low idle and gradually speed up. Once it get up to 500-600rpms, then I can give it a little gas, it still cuts out but will speed up some more after I let off the pedal. Finally it will get drivable. This is driving me nuts. This morning the same thing. When I saw that it was going to do it again this morning, I raised the hood and unplugged and replugged the MAF and wiggled it real good for good contact and it made no difference. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> What else can there be? Anyone have an electrical diagram for one of these? Could it be an EGR valve sticking or something?

The SOHC engine does have an EGR but I'm not sure where it's located. Somewhere on the intake manifold.

And yes, if it's stuck open it will cause idle problems.

I changed the fuel filter just for S and g's and it made no difference at all. I think its got to do with the timing or something now. I found two temperature sensors, I unplugged one and it went to the gauge, the other must go to the brain and the connections looked a little green. I wiggled the plug, but I wont be able to tell anything until the engine is cold again. I'm thinking the brain sets the timing different for a cold start?

Son of a .... thats not it either. New fuel filter and cleaned up that connection and its still the same old crap. I'm gonna wear my starter out at this rate. Have to start it about 20 times until it stays idling <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> I ordered some manuals off ebay on cd for 12 bucks, we will see if that is a rip off or not. I need me a good wiring diagram and a way to read the codes, etc. This is killing me. When one vehicle scews up, they all screw up. The kia started this, then the motorcyle got a flat and I'm waiting on a new inner tube, then last night the drivers side brake caliper lock up on my ranger <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> I patched the tube and got the bike ready, and freed up the caliper on the truck, now back to the kia <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

Just wanted to chime in, I tried this mod on my 96 Sportage and it has the old style IAC. Everything worked fine UNTIL I turned on my air conditioning. Then the engine would stumble at idle and wouldn't run right. With the added load of the AC compressor, you need a working IAC. If you live somewhere that isn't hot enough to need AC I would try this mod, but here AC is a must <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

Also doing this mod caused my OBDII computer to throw a trouble code. I was not OK with that, since that "check engine" light is never on and I'm proud of that, especially since Sportages are notorious for the Check Engine light constantly coming on

Fortunately for me, when my IAC was malfunctioning, a quick cleaning job with carb cleaner and silicone spray got it back working spiffy.

As for the original problem, could you give us an update? I know you were checking the connection between the MAF sensor plug and the MAF sensor itself, but did you try doing any tests on the MAF sendsor to see if it is actually bad? I would expect the engine to throw a code, but who knows, I believe you have OBDI which doesn't seem to be as comprehensive about reporting problems. I would see if you can do any tests involving checking the resistence with a multimeter, etc., to see if the MAF is bad.

Also, I didn't realize you had a trouble code... That's good news I think! I hope you can find a way to get the ECU to flash you the code. In fact, I might have some info for you on how to make it flash you the code, I had some papers about that at work. You put this wire between two connectors on this plug under the hood... I'll see if I can find the info for you...

Also Axe suggested the EGR could be the problem, have you checked into this possibility yet?

Other than that, I might consider doing a fuel pressure test. This is kinda a long shot but I have seen weak fuel pumps that got stronger after running a few minutes. You could try doing a deadhead fuel pressure test, test the pressure coming right off the fuel pump. Easy access, there's a hatch under the back seat where you can get to the fuel pump - No need to drop the tank like other vehicles! grr... I hate that...

Anyway it's probably not a fuel pressure issue, just wanted to put that idea out there in case nothing else pans out... What you really need first is to get the trouble code out of the computer! I love trouble codes... Funny story, my ECU is OBDII but for some reason it won't allow the trouble codes to be read by a standard OBDII reader unless I place a jumper wire between 2 pins on the diagnostic connector under the hood, by the air filter... Funny thing is, that's how you normally retrieve codes on an OBDI system, with a jumper wire, but it's like since mine was the first year that came with OBDII, there were still some throwback features from OBDI...or something... In fact, I'm not sure but the manual makes it sound like it is possible to retrieve trouble codes OBDI style on my ECU, with the flashing CEL, even though that is normally not something OBDII will do... Crazy...