While at Uwharrie this past weekend I managed to tear up my lower ball joints. They have been making a rather loud and somewhat annoying sound while driving around town. Is there any way to pack grease or something in there until I can get home to fix the problem. I don't have any tool or the necessary space here at school.

Brad

Install a zerc fitting if there is a hole for that? Jab a needle into the boot and inject a bunch of grease? Hope it don't break when you are driving home <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />

They make noise, yes that is what failed parts do, and no there is no temporary fix you just remove the old BJ and install the new one.

The upside is that they probably will not fall apart on you. They are designed to not do that and in order for them to fail, they have to be way way worn and way way gone. There is something about those critical suspension parts needing to not fall apart on the road.

Michael

Thats good to hear. I was just worried cause I had a tie rod end pull apart on me once. I guess there were a lot more forces on that than normal driving though.

you mean the TRE joint itself seperated? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> thats something to be proud of!

... I agree with Michael though, these types of joints are designed not fail. it may be loud and squeeky, but thats all it will do.

-Rob

Thanks for the input.

Brad

Good luck when you install the new ball joints... MAke sure you get the right replacement, I didn't look closely enough when I got them put the on and WHAMMO bad positive camber \ / <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />. The replacements listed by TRW, Moog etc. were ~1/2-3/4" too short, I had to get the OE part# from the dealer cross it online at NAPA then have them order it for me because they didn't even list one for the '95 Troop. (Mine was built 12/94)

I bought my balljoints from autopartsworld.com they had the cheapest price I could find on Sankei/555 parts (listed as Japan as brand). I know Moog uses them for some of their parts, not sure about ball joints though. Has 555 stamped on them. Mine fit perfectly. And they come with grease fittings what a concept.

A couple things to plan for. If you use a pickle fork to seperate it (was the only way mine seperated) get a good one from sears for $5 more then the auto parts store sells. I first bought one from checker auto and it bent around the shaft of the ball joint, was fun to get out again <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> I also broke 2 cheap harbor freight 3 jaw pullers. Didnt break my sears one but it wouldnt budge the joint even with heat. Also beg or borrow a torch. I pounded on the knuckle on mine for a few hours trying to get it to seperate (3 lb sledge) then finally decided to break company rules and had a neighbor drive me to work so I could get the 'b' tank turbo torch from my service truck. A few minutes of heat then use the good pickle fork and it popped right off.

Not meaning to scare you here, but they do fail. YearÆs back I had an '87 Fiero (Nuff said) and only heard noise for a couple of days. Left home one morning and my pass front wheel collapsed on it self (lower B-joint). Luckily, I was leaving home and only turning around, so no other damage and I'm still here. From that point forward, I continually check for bad joints and replace ASAP.

P.S. This very well could have been an isolated experience, but one I don't want to happen at 65 mph.

Later,



Michael