I also had a bent center link. Its not the link its self its bent where it connects the frame. I'll get a pic if you want.. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Do you mind? Maybe, I'm looking for the wrong thing.

not at all.. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> I'll go get one.....

PS: I might mention, that this trooper's steering wheel always seems to drift to towards the passenger side. Its never really pulled (wheel alignemnt) after a trail ride, but steeering wheel almost always moves a bit to the right.

PS2: I just took another look underneath. Steer parts and pieces between wheels and steering box look great. Not so sure between steering box and shaft. The splines that connect shaft to box, MIGHT be a little off. Still looks like wheel may have slipped. Keep in mind that I have a front lockright, so I fight <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" /> this puppy at times <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />.

Mark, is you are still going to pull the wheel keep a few things in mide. Holding down the brake pedal will not help to power down the air bag system any faster. The air bag control unit has a "batter" (for lack of a better word) that holds the charge incase of a massive wreck where batter power was lost the air bags could still deploy. The only way to make sure is just to wait the set period of time. Also, make sure that you disconect the air bag plug under the dash before you start to take apart the steering colum. It is a rather obivious yellow conector. After that remove the bolts holding the air bag on, and then unplug it from the clock switch. (as said by jessica, be carefully with air bag moduel as it can still deploy. we set one off with a 9 volt battery in class). Then you will need a puller...13.99 to buy or 22.00 to rent at advance. The wheel is splined onto the steering shaft. It will be helpfull to mark the cuttent location with a permant marker on the wheel and the shaft, that way you are sure of how many splines you are moving. Before doing all of that, double check your tie rods since they control toe. We did an alingment on mine and got everything within spec, but did not lock the sttering wheel so the wheel itself is a fe degrees off. I am gonna pull and relocate the wheel in the right palce). Sorry for the long post, but hope this helps. Gotta love Wyotech!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Ok heres the pic. I put an arrow to show where to look. You have to look at the gap in yours to see if its bent. Look at the gap between this mount and the center link arm that connects to it.

That's the Ideler arm. I've buggered up two of those.

That's most likely your problem.

An easy way to tell is to lie under the front while some one turns the wheel back and forth. You should be able to see movement in the shaft.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />Andre

Idler shaft might be slightly bent. I's have to pull to confirm. Speaking of which, does anyone have source for these things. Only place that I've found wants $170 w/o bar.

You can get one at a junk yard for $20 probably. it might even come with the center link. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I've got a couple from salvage yards. They are stupid expensive new. I've got one laying around somewhere if you get in a pinch.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />Andre