I got a 301,100 mile 1985 deluxe pickup with the 22R. An ATK rebuilt motor was put in at about 175,000. It still runs great but leaks oil between the head/block on both sides. Compression test show about 150lbs pressure in all cylinders with no leaking after 5 minutes. Due to this leak I've got to replace the head gasket, ull the head, drop the oil pan, ect.

I really like this truck and want keep the current 22R mill for a long time. With 125,000 on it is it worthwhile to hone the bores and replace the piston rings and rod bearings too? Do you think I should also replace the main bearings too?

Or is this addition bottom end work a waste of money on a 22R with this many miles on it. Thanks the 22R experiences and advise. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

We keep rebuilding them and stuffin' 'em back in around here, as long as everything machines out within tolerance.

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<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> Thanks for the low down on the the 22R's. I bought the gaskets and timing set from http://www.engnbldr.com/ last night via ebay. Glad to here a recommendation on the parts. I'll order up the rings and rod bearings to go with them once I get the piston and bores mic'd.

Do you think I should do the main bearings too? Should I do the oil pump too? Thanks for the additional info.

The pumps on these are dang near bulletproof. Tear down, clean up and inspect, put back together and repack for startup(vasoline). Biggest concern is making sure the relief valve isn't gunked up, but you usually see those on an abused/neglected engine. Your call unless ya want to put an HV pump in there.

Gonna tear 'er down all the way, may as well do it up. If the other stuff is still okay, you never know when someone needs a bonafide freebie cuz their work ride is broke.

yep, if you're gonna re-ring it, might as well rebuild the whole thing. 150lb across the board doesn't sound too bad at all really though <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Ditto. If it runs great and you've got 4 150's, I wouldn't touch the rings or the bottom end. If you are certain that the oil leak is the head gasket, pull the head, have a machine shop check it out, slap a new gasket in and run it for another 100K.

After the compression test I was in denial about it. I had no water in the oil or oil in the water so I went to the car wash and got the engine squeeky clean. It definately the head gasket. After 10 miles of driving I traced 3 leaks to the head gasket. 1 front passenger side, the other two front and middle of the block on the drivers side. I was seriously bummed. Motor runs great. No black or white smoke!

Glad to hear the oil pumps are solid and I'll check the relief valve out to make sure it working good when I put big red back together again.

From what you guys are telling me it sounds like the bottom end should be left alone with 125,000 mile on it. I guess your saying if the compression is 150 across all cylinders then no need to mess with it.

I love this truck and want this motor to last longer then my last one, but I take it fixing something for nothing doesn't always help. Some told me that replacing the rings, rod & main bearings would ensure motor longevity but I wasn't sure about that. Thanks again for helping me figure out how much is enough to keep driving big red for the next 300,000 miles.

XJ, a bit my bad not to mention in the first post that the magic compression numbers are 142-171 psi, +/-4%. So you got 'er clean and found the leaks anyway then? Have the machine shop pressure test the head while they're touching up the bottom for you, if taking it there. 125K is barely broken in, if built up right. Glad the rest of it sounds/runs good.

With that being a solid axle, you can drop the oil pan easily enough to inspect the bottom end; ain't like the PITA of an IFS truck, that's for sure!!

Solid axle rules! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/mrt.gif" alt="" /> This truck is very mechanic friendly for sure. This head gasket leak is the strangest thing I've seen. Leaks oil from outside but is seems to be still sealed well on the inside. I was hoping it was the valve cover but no luck. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

Thanks for the magic compression numbers. It's always good to know where your at with your 22R. I was gonna lap the valves, replace the valve seals and call it good. I wasn't planning on taking the head to the machine shop, but maybe I should get it pressure tested and surfaced. I'd hate to put it back together and still have it leak.

Thanks for everyone's help this far. We finally got it tore down completely and found the source of the oil leak from the head gasket. It was leaking at the front oil port that goes up from the block and into the head cylinder. I also found small leaks at the water jackets on the drivers side.

I did find something else once we started cleaning the piston tops. The pistons are narked .75 over on the tops and they seem a little sloppy in the bores. About a 1/16" of wiggle room. The seem to wiggle more front to back than side to side.

Never been this far into a 22R before. Does having pisons oversized this much mean this block is nearing the end of it's life? How tight should the pistons be in their bores on the 22R? need to Thanks for any help on this.