Sunder thanks for your help. Jeep OEM gear oil is SAE 75w-85 synthetic.

Everything that I can find after market is SAE 75W-90 synthetic there should be no problems running this weight should there?

So if I flush this thing out a few times do you all really think it will run right again?

That depends, in theory yes, but I was wheeling with a guy last week, that took deep mud, and didn't extend his trans and T case vents, we swaped out the fluid on trail, 2x's and then his trany blew, I think being that your symptoms are improving with each fluid change I think you 03 will make a full recovery!
You said you also extend the Transmission and T case vents???? Then How did the water get in?

shift tower. no good way to seal that up. it'll take a splash but it's not a submarine. nice pic! wish i had a camera crew! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Tom
try 5200 marine sealent, its made by 3M, It is by far the best stuff around, (cures underwater) its flexable, I use it for so may applications, I even use to keep water from getting behind welds, only bad thing is its soo damn sticky it a pain to get it off the skin
Cheers
ML

75W-90 won't hurt it for short durations. I wouldn't go about driving high speed on the freeway for extended periods of time. You just want to get the water to go into suspension forming that foamy stuff so that it comes out. As soon as it is in solution, you want to get it out.


Water will reduce the oil's ability to lower friction. So... If you have been forcing it into gear, you might have done some permanent damage. Just change it out a couple times and see if it helps.

Past experience with water crossings tells me you should check your front dif, just take the fill plug out and see if milk colored oil comes out, enough time spent in deep water often lets the water in the axletubes. It only takes a moment to check and might save you a lot of grief.

Be careful, it's great stuff but shouldn't be used on something you want to take apart later. Very strong! not designed to take much heat tho... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

I forgot to tell the trick on how to get it off, OK so before you lay down your bead of 5200 place some monofilament fishing line down (20-30 lbs test is fine) in the seam then place the 5200 (the aim of this is that the mono is in the bead of 5200, you will want to leave a little bit hanging out (maybe in a corner or something), this way if you ever need to brake the 5200 just grabb some pliers and pull the mono fishing line.
This is how I set decks on Fancy sport fishing boats (gas tanks under the deck, and it makes it quicker to get to them)
As for the the heat and 5200, you can set that stuff on fire after it cures, and it will still hold
Cheers
ML

i wasn't thinking that the water got in his trans at the gasket area of the shift tower, but rather around the rubber boot. didn't know the product so i assumed it was something to gob up under the boot around the shift lever or something. i try really hard to stay out of deep water or go slow as hell through it. love to see pics of folks willing to risk it all though!!