Gentlemen,
I may be a novice here, but shouldn't the vacuum gauge read more or less the same, 21 or so across the RPM range? It's going up with RPM. Vacuum leak somewhere?

Those low vacuum readings at start up bother me...

Maladjusted valves could cause... do check them, and re-torque the head. Check the intake manifold bolts for tightness.

You might try eliminating sources of vacuum leaks by pulling and plugging lines... maybe one of the vsv's or the canister, or perhaps the brake booster has sprung a leak ?

ok what on the valves do i need to adjust? just the valve lash?

You need to adjust the same thing you did when you put it together. You did adjust the valves, right?

Either way, lash is your only option. The procedure is in your book, or someone posted it here a while ago.

Michael

Ok I pulled the valve cover off. And I checked the head bolts, the valve lash and the position of the cam in relationship to the timing and it looks perfect!

Everything looks great. I did manage to tighten a couple of the head bolts about 2 ftlb's and I did adjust one valve lash about .002. But thatÆs all.

I did however notice that the pcv valve was letting oil come into the intake manifold. Not sure if itÆs supposed to???

And the plug for the ignition module was not making full contact. (Hopefully my power problem)

IÆll post again when I get it back together a bit later.

That is what it is supposed to do - control emissions of oil vapor from the crankcase by sending them back through the engine to be burned (PCV stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation).

Well I finally did a compression test. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

Results;

#1 150
#2 155
#3 150
#4 160

This was after 4 cranks like the book says. I was cranking from in the cab so IÆm not sure how quickly the pressure came up but from the numbers I think its ok.

Book says 142 to 170 are OK.

So now IÆm not sure what the problem is. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

The book says the vacuum should read from 17 to 22 inches. I was reading 19 so vacuum looks good.

Well after reading some in the manual I think I might have clogged exhaust??? ItÆs the only thing I have left that would seam to fit the problem.

And after looking at the exhaust I see that it only has one O2 sensor? I thought even OBD1 where supposed to have two? One in front of the cat, and one behind?

Anyway I think IÆll try loosing up some of the screws on the exhaust header output where it meets the rest of the exhaust so it can leak abit, and see what that dose.

Ok I changed out the O2 sensor. And no real changed in how it's running.

But when I was at auto zone they said the computer said it had two O2 sensors. And I don't see a rear one. So are there two?

Ok I just checked ignition timing. And something weird is happening.

ItÆs warmed up, I disconnected and plugged the egr and canister lines. And shined the timing light on the balancer.

And when itÆs idling by itself (IÆm not pushing on the throttle) itÆs really retarded (mark on balancer is to the right). About 2ö or so.

But the instant you add abit of throttle it jumps back to the ô0ö mark where it should be. Then if you let off the throttle it either tries to die or again idles down to 850 or 900 RPM and shows allot of retard.

And it Instantly jumps to the "0" mark. Not a slow movement, when throttle is added.
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Could this be a problem with the "distributor advance mechanism" in the distributor? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Ok now I tried to add a bit of RPM by changing the idle adjustment screw and nothing. I cranked the screw almost all the way and it barley adjusted the idle. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

I also have a check engine light now. Not sure when in this process it came on.