Id love to have a set. Good point on the pricing. These will probably come later next year for me.

How would these do with wear on the shocks? My tie rods wear into the shocks just enough to slightly ding them. Would we need to run upside down shocks (like the edelbrocks?)

Oh, and happy birthday, Sean. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
-J<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

i understand pricing is always an issue. the problem with a product like this is that you can hold them in your hand...so small seems like it shoud = cheap.

these are really no different in concept than the Heavy Duty tie rods for a Jeep, Dana 44, etc... that is in number of parts...only real difference is that instead of one being 4' and the other being 3'...........they are both about 1'.

just to give you an idea, the similar type item from other manufactures for other applications run in the $300 range. As an example, All Pro Offroad has a HD draglink kit for Toyotas w/ FJ ends - $60 for the adjuster, $30 each for the TRE's and $5.00 each (x2) for the Jams = $130.00 (shorten that down by a foot and a half and that is the same as this product.)


Now that being said, and knowing that you guys are......well nicely put...."budget minded"...........i have been working hard to get these done in a production fashion that will reduce the costs.

the only way to do that was for me to go out on a limb and Manufacture a few hundred to get the Price of the center Hex sleeves down. So in this case Sean is right one of the real expense ends up being the 4 TRE's (Tie Rod Ends)


i'm shooting for an initial price point under $100 per side for the complete tie rod w/ 2 TRE's, 2 jam nuts, 1 sleeve

that shouldn't bee too tuff to swallow considering how many salvage tie rods i sell at $25.00 per side and that guys are buying a "clamp on" type protector for $65 per side.

i'll have the final pricing hammered down by the time all sleeves are here.

Considering that I was quoted $115 each + shipping from St. Charles Isuzu, and $135 each + shipping from a local stealership... The price is looking good to me.

For those of you who have never broken a Tie Rodà you might be sitting there scratching your heads about all of thisà

HereÆs what MattÆs new beefy Tie Rods probably wonÆt do:




(* Ignoring the torn CV boot) --- The arrow indicates the problemà

Our stock Tie Rods are pretty weak, and often break under the stresses of spirited 4-wheeling û Usually when the throttle is being used to carry you over an obstacle, and a front tire leaves the ground for a moment; returning to earth while still spinning.


MattÆs new Tie Rods are substantially thicker and stronger than the OEM units, and should greatly reduce (if not downright eliminate!) the possibility of any future Tie Rod breakage.


If your Isuzu has Tie Rods (the 2nd gen Rodeos donÆt), and you go off-road û if you havenÆt broken one yet; itÆs basically only a matter of time before you doà Unless of course you get some of Matt's new ones û in which case youÆll most-likely NEVER break them.


Way to go, Matt! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />


<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

this is a kind of common misconception... On my 2 gen Rodeo, I have the steering links which look exactly like the tie-rods, and they serve exactly the same purpose as the tie-rod do. If this does not make them tie-rods ... well, I am puzzled.

I still do not understand what's wrong with 2 gen Rodeos - why nobody makes re-inforced steering links for us.

Holger-

Because, the tie rods on the 2nd gen are part of the steering rack. One end has a TRE, like above, and the adjuster threads into the rack. The weak part is the threaded center adjuster and since you are limited by the fact it is tied into the rack, you are limited in what you can do to fix the problem.

At the least, you would need to either look at swapping to a beefier rack, (in general R&P racks are not what you would call beefy in the first place) or figure out what to do about fabbing up parts that would allow for a larger diameter adjuster. But, you would never be able to go to the internally threaded style Matt has above. It just would never really fit into the rack AND anything that increases diameter of the adjuster is going to interfere with the edge of the rack and you will loose angularity.

The shorter version: It just ain't possible. Even with money, this would be very highly improbable.

Michael

Thank you Michael. Now I understand the problem.

So, if I break a "rod" on a trail, then, to fix it, I'll need to dis-assemble / re-assemble the whole R&P <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> On the trail <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

Not really...I know Mike Walter and others have figured out how to swap the end links (not sure what they are called on a rack&pinion setup) on the trail without replacing the whole rack. Of course, you have to be carrying the spare parts with you...

I recall this was discussed a few months ago in Tech forum...

The adjuster screws into the end of the rack that actually moves. It also pivots to allow for suspension movement. There used to be pictures around here, but I can't seem to find them.

Michael

count me in for a set, I was going to have some custom made but hadn't gotten around to it.


most likely. but do the edelbrocks for the 2G+ trucks fit on 1Gs?