Note to Readers EB (Ted) is a retired machinist who visits us here. He's been also been known to sneak around ovals in the Portland OR area, and wreak havoc with his Z06.

>>>*I said I would offer a few tips on improving the power output of the little 2.4L Toyota engine. For this discussion we are speaking of the 1985 and later engine design, it is the most efficient of all in this series.

So here goes.

The one trouble I had writing this was it started to sound a bit like an advertisement for parts I supply. The problem there is that of course those are the parts I use.

So right off the bat, remember that there are many good venders with many good items, and they may well be every bit as good as what I have. I will say there are quite a few builders out there that this old man spends as much time chasing as vice-versa. In any event, I will try to be as generic as possible.

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Our goal is to assemble the POTENTIAL to produce up to 150 horsepower, but what we usually really want is to improve the torque output within the normal operating powerband.

The basics include a solid short block, a sound cylinder head, an upgrade camshaft, and an improved exhaust system. From this point, we simply tease several areas.

Improvements to the fueling system can also help, but they are way down the list as to real gains, so I will not go into that, other than make sure the system is clean and the mixture proper.

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One very important step is to verify the quench before final assembly, which is often overlooked. Quench is the close collision of the piston head to the flat part of the combustion chamber. Nearly all aftermarket pistons are destroked by about .3mm or around .012" or so. This varies a tad between brands, so installing a new piston set will probably reduce the piston height. Then if your machinist resizes the connecting rods, you just lost even more deck height because they clip the cap and rod to do it. (Well, they do if they are doing it right.)

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There is only one real way to check for quench, you must assemble the short block and measure. So you will need one spare set of connecting rod bearings, they are cheap since all 1975 to 1995 take the same part, only the undersize varies depending on if your crankshaft is machined or not.

Then if the machine shop regrinds the crankshaft, you really could end up with 4 different deck heights in the same engine, unless they index the crankshaft stroke and most simply do not. By the time they get to, say, .030" undersize and have resized all of the connecting rods, it can stack up to a lot, and this just kills power output.

So "dummy" up the short block, and measure how close the piston is to the top of the block. A straight edge and a feeler guage makes this easy. We want it to be zero deck, or as close to that as we can get. Stock, the piston does protrude by about .006" or so, if yours does, this is fine.

The goal here is to get them all to as close to the same as possible and up where they belong.

If this measurement shows the piston is down from the top of the deck at TDC, you will need to disassemble and correct this by having the block decked. Tight quench means you can run proper ignition timing without pinging. A sloppy quench will create more pinging at less timing that the tighter compression ratio will, the blast effect of the close collision atomizes the mixture and distributes it better across the chamber.

Be sure to keep track of exactly how much is surfaced off the engine block, this is important I will get to why later.

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Right here I will insert one theory I have that is at odds with almost ALL other engine rebuilders. This is knife-edging the counterweights. I say this is exactly backwards.

Think of a V-bottomed boat, then a flat bottomed boat. Which one takes less power to get up on top? The knife-edged counterweight slides into the oil, and leads with much more surface area. Oil is kinda clingy stuff, even when hot. Instead, we smooth and blend the leading edge leaving it square. There is a pressure wave ahead of the flat surface, oil moves aside. The shaft spins more freely with less drag. I personally quit doing the knife-edging in circa 1990 on our stock car engines, the result was a drop in oil temp of about 15? on the endurance engines, ALL of them. One gain however might be in weight but the mass is so close to centerline I feel it is of little consequence.

We just use stock crankshafts on our Toyota engines, or our new performance ones, which are really just a nice forged steel upgrade, and so far they work fine.

Here is where I feel is a nice little gain, take some time and some sanding rolls and polish roughness out of the leading edge of the counterweights, and remove any odd flashings and casting flaws on the shaft before you have it remachined. You will see lots of them if you look. Don't get carried away here, but it can help to keep the oil cooler which isn't horsepower but is durability. You were going to rebalance anyway, right?

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Engine size is the next concern. Those with the strokers love them, and if in the budget, go for it. (Mosk cheats, stuffing cubic inches down the top of a big old stroker isn't fair to the rest of us on a budget...*LOL**) That stuff is cool but it would break the bank for many of us. We are trying to be cheap here since the kids are standing around yelling about silly stuff like food, and the wife is waving some piece of paper that says electric bill, whatever that is.

Of course, seeing the number of ladies buying engine parts over the last few years, it just may be HER that is out there overhauling the 4 Runner, so why don't you get up off your dead..(well, you know) and go help her?

*You can find out who won the football game later.

*heehee.

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Normally the block will require rebore, always bore as little as possible to assure round and straight bores. There is no reason to overbore to gain cubic inches, it does gain some of course but about a tablespoon or so is all. You will be better off with the cylinder walls as thick as possible for rigidity, more power can be lost in frictionals than can be gained in size by boring, so I feel around .040" is maximum without checking out the cylinder walls thicknesses carefully.

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Now both Darin's and Larry's engines are .060", but I went through perhaps a dozen blocks to find some I would use there. That is a PIA. The fun part with both of those was that the pistons were NOT destroked, so after decking the blocks they kinda stuck out a tad too much. Putting the head on with it that way would be embarrassing and get me phone calls. So I simply milled off some of the outer raised circle on the piston head, effectively raising the compression ratio by about .5 to one plus the gain from the overbore, those both came out to a shade over 10.1:1 which made me nervous. They haven't sent me any nasty emails though, so it seemed to work. This is easy to do if you can find the non-destroked pistons anymore, if you can, email me and let me know where.

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So now we have the block assembled, the deck height is zero to less than plus .006", and deck is flat, straight, and perfectly smooth. Bag the short block in plastic, let's go look at the cylinder head.

I prefer the Topline head casting because when I measure the ports, I get right at 5cc larger than most stock ones, and they seem to be more consistant. Your stock head will work fine if it is sound, but you must measure the thickness to know exactly how much metal has been surfaced off. Again, this is important, and I will also get to that later.

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Larger valves open up the "window" or area available for flow. They also change the angle of the flow cone as fuel and air enter the cylinder. It is also an improvement in the goodie, which is the initial blast effect past the head of the valve as it opens. Think of your finger on the end of a garden hose, and the spray you see as you take it off, and then it slows to a steady stream.

Exactly the same thing happens as the intake valve cracks open, and this is the best and most important portion of cylinder fill.

So larger is a big asset here for many reasons, following this logic we would think as large as possible would be even better, right? Well, no, too large then creates a velocity drop and now physical energy must be used to recover the flow, too large can actually cost power for the intent of this piece.

We use .033" larger intakes and .024" larger exhaust valves. Since our goal is to add power without paying for some Exxon executive's family vacation, this size is about right.

Of course we must now machine the valve seats larger to get them in there, and we need to make a cut under the seat to open up the bowl. Plus we need to get the valve spring assembled hieght to 1.594"-1.610" so the rocker arm doesn't go out of geometry and things don't bang into things.

To the machine shops that insist in sticking an .060" thick shim under a stock valve spring, I say they should be shot and killed and their bones hung in the Sun as a warning. The setup will handle about .480" lift without mashing stuff, stick in an .060" thick shim and we are now at around .420" or less, then bolt on a .430" lift camshaft? *Well, I bet you can see the problem. At least a half dozen came though our doors this year with exactly that situation.

We use 1.610" installed most of the time, since we are next going to be using a higher lift camshaft. The base circle will be slightly reduced, even on a brand new camshaft. It has to be to keep the rocker arm installed angle close to arc centerline.

We don't bother to port the StreetRV head versions, porting does add power but it begins to move up the RPM band quickly, we are still looking for economy and inexpensive power gain, so porting and racing is a different article.

One trick we do use is dimpling up in the bowl dome. We use a 3/8ths die grinding tip to create little dips or dents, all this does is collect fuel droplets. The idea is to take advantage of the blast effect as the valve opens. Air is easy to move, you see, the fuel would rather not so we just force it a bit. This seems to work, and seems to have stopped some of the hesitation we noticed with the very early setups. Then notice that little vortex ledge under the head of the intake valve. It is there to twist the mixture, and increase velocity at slow speeds. Fuel tends to head that way, there are some tiny gains to be had in the mid to upper RPM ranges by changing this to a slight trough. DON'T cut it out of there, you will be sorry unless you are racing or supercharged/turbo'd.

Oh, go ahead if you wish...*LOL**.

On the camshaft profile, if carbed you may run more duration, EFI is sensitive so about 222? @ .050" lobe lift is the most we will use and I prefer around 218?. The one design we do run the full 222? duration on is our little 261C, and it is only .410" gross valve lift. But that is a fat lobe little critter that is intended to offer almost instant off-throttle torque, folks who haul loads or have huge tires like that one. Still, it has that chattery idle, nature of the creature.

Lifts to .430" stay well within the geometry of the top end, for street use we prefer a bit less. You will need a slightly stronger valve spring, not much, about 5% although stock will work and run fine if in good shape, as long as you don't go teisting her to redline everywhere you go. The only way to know on your valve springs is to test them, if they won't hit 60# at seat, replace them. The stock springs are darned good pieces, though, I have seen them test just fine at 200,000 miles.

Now some venders offer split duration profiles, usually more lift/duration on the exhaust side. This has only the effect off moving the powerband to higher RPM's, we do not advise or produce anything other than single patterns, and I am currently working on a design that has much LESS lift/duration on the exhaust side and it looks extremely promising for a high-torque and economy design. (Don't ask, it's months away still.)

One trick with the cam design is lobe shape. Several venders offer many designs based on the factory lobe shape that will add valve action. We found that while this did add power, it also can add noise due to the mechanical action.

So we used a different lobe shape entirely on our current favorite design, the sudden dropoff on the factory lobe design was almost entirely eliminated. This let us produce a profile that is fairly quiet and short duration @ .050" lobe lift, and still hit .425" gross valve lift and add area under the curve.

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Now we are almost ready to set the head on, it is time to think of valve timing. This also gets overlooked a lot. Let's assume we decked the block by .013" to get the quench back and we are dropping on a brand new head with our personal choice of camshaft design, got the big valves all setup and in place by our favorite machine shop we trust.

We need to correct the valve timing. The easy way to do this is to go back and machine .007" off the head, to get to a total of .020" removed. The reason is now we can drop a 3 position crank gear on in the "A" position, this moves the valve timing ahead by the 2? of the cam movement we just lost due to surfacing. Or we can invest in an adjustable cam gear, that works too and lets us experiment a bit.


All of this is well within the system's ability to compensate so emissions are easy to pass, we don't need to spend a pile on larger injectors, etc.

But now we need to think about the exhaust system. Improving the exhaust system is number one as far as freeing up usuable power, it doesn't "make" any at all. But the factory needed a quiet, smooth, and responsive engine because the driver might be a little old lady going to the store in Hawaii, or a young fellow driving around at 5000 ft altitude in Colorado. So they compensated for this, and for ground clearence on some vehicles.

The best setup cost wise we have found is to use the excellent factory exhaust manifold, then increase the pipe size to 2" all the way to the muffler, yep, the cat, too. Then we increase again to 2 1/4" on exit all the way back.

This creates a bit of directional flow and frees up power, it fairly quiet and smooth.

So here is a recap, like I said, simple and basic stuff, and in the budget.

Tight short block.
Quench set to zero/+.006"
Larger valves and mods.
Single pattern cam, 222? or less @ .050", .430" or less lift.
Restore accurate valve timing.
Improve exhaust flow.

No real surprises here, easy to do, cost should be less than $1500 including the paint. This combination WILL make 140+ H/P and I have seen tests that touch 150 now.

The gains are simple, the larger bore increases compression slightly once the deck height is back to zero, the mild head surfacing does the same. The engine is now right at 9.7-9.8 to one static, still good for regular fuel. The airflow increase is about 6-7%, the flow cone is improved. The largest gain is in the larger area added by the cam profile, and this creates a need for the improved exhaust system to take advantage. Tuning settings remain stock.

Easy stuff you can do yourself with simple hand tools and a book, if the first time though ask questions so you don't mash the timing chain tensioner or ruin your timing cover by forgetting the "secret" bolt in the front.

*And there is a wealth of good information right here on this site, with genuine experts that will answer questions. I know, I learn things almost every day here.......*EB

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So EB what your basicly saying is that its not so much HP that will make you happy its available torque in the useable band?

140+ HP is good, What I wanna know is what is the new torque rating and at what approximate RPM? Also, in a truck with proper gearing what kinda milage can you expect?

Finally, how does adding a 20r head apply to this theory?

P.S. thanks a whole lot. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

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>>>*Uhh...*LOL** 20R? That is another tech article, and about as long as the last one that took me 3 hours and I still didn't get a lot of stuff in there.

On torque, well, that is what you feel, horsepower is just math. But horsepower is what nearly everyone asks for so that is what everyone tries to figure the numbers in. I would expect about the same percentile increase, around 25% or so.

*Mileage? How the heck would I know? I do know that in several sustained throttle tests there was no lbs/hr fuel use increase to really speak of with any of our setups, but there are thousands of possibilities I never will live long enough to see charts on.

I do know in the real world our 261C does the best on economy of what we have available and also makes the best power under 2800 RPM or thereabouts...*EB.

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>>>*This is going to be a little long, sorry. But there is no other way to make the points. Your questions are exceptional and fit right in with the theme of the original piece I wrote.

I do understand the concerns of any machine shop on warrenty/guarantees when the consumer is doing their own assembly. There are many different levels of skill out there, the problem becomes compounded when we are in a situation where a complete powerplant is shipped over a long distance.

There is simply no way to control what happens once the unit is out of our care and keeping. Sure, just plain silly things can happen, a rod bolt not properly torqued, a fastner not installed, the 1/2" end wrench left in the intake valley of a 460" Ford engine...(..Yea, I did that one, I got my wrench back 7 years later when I did the freshen at 208,000..*LOL**...).

Sometimes a piece of metal just plain breaks.

But far more likely is the situation where the engine is started out of time and run that way, wires and connections hooked up wrong, the gentleman who chooses to "retorque everything" just to make "sure" and goes "just a little bit" more.

This accounts for over 98% of all returns. The national average for returns of an assembled long block is around 8-10% for all reasons, one company I know of finds 16% acceptable...???. So this means that out of 100 comebacks, about 98 of them are diagnosed as consumer caused out in the field. I could write a very long and very funny book on just this subject. I mean no disrespect when I refer to skill, because I make mistakes myself. But when we are dealing with specific clearences and they matter, skill does come into play.

So the term "defects in workmanship and materials" becomes a requirement for any engine rebuilder or machinist. 98% of the returns for all reasons just can't be absorbed and allow them to stay in business. Now my son Tod holds right at around .2% on his heads and in the 2% range for his engine work, which as a Dad I am understandably proud of. Perhaps slightly better than I used to manage, and a big reason for that is most of the work is piecework or ready to assemble packages. If he did a lot of longblocks, that number would increase, I am sure. Yes, I did more longblocks than he does.

Understanding the reason for a limited warrenty, the next term we must change is the power output. Note I carefully used the word "potential", and there is a reason. No one, and I mean no one can gaurantee a power output unless they build, install, and tune the engine themselves, and then test to make sure.

All of us in the field get the common question, "How much power will your (insert item here) make?"

There is no accurate answer to the question.

We do already offer what we call a "143 H/P" kit, and have for many years. Note the term "H/P" could mean horsepower, or it could mean high performance, they are one and the same.

Now having tested the assembly, or I should say I sat in on some tests done by some techs with tuning skills and equipment far exceeding my own, I saw a documented 143 horsepower as a best in real world dyno tests under perfect conditions. Note that even that was computer corrected for temperature, etc. So by the term "143 H/P" I mean the assembly will have that potential, still the actual results could be less, skill in the field comes into play.

Since that time we found a few tiny tricks with cam lobes and flow angles that math says adds 5-6 ponies. I have no test results, and I am too danged old to sit on a plane to go check myself, but I would be tickled to get the charts sent to me.

My son Tod does build a few engines for the local market, the 143 H/P is the most popular option by far. I don't even know what he gets for those right now, I do know he uses new cranks and rods, and all new everything except for the block itself.

He never has chosen to ship them because of the problem of distance and levels of skill in the field. He prefers to look the customer in the eye and ask questions, because everything that they will do will reflect on what he does. I did the same, the last engine I actually did ship was to Josh down in Arizona, that was a specialty high altitude engine, and I will be frank when I say the job made me nervous. But Josh proved to be very talented and fine, and the engine still runs since of course he has treated it gently and with great care....*LOL**...But even that one required some assembly since it shipped as a short block, the head and assembly kit seperate.

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Here is an example of what can happen, this is a true story regarding a 302" Ford Marine engine I built myself inhouse for a customer about 8 years ago.

This was a longblock, which means no sheet metal installed.
A week after delivery, my phone rang, someone I didn't know said, "YOUR engine won't turn over." He was quite angry, a common situation. He turned out to be the installer, not the customer.

Now I had rolled it over myself, built it with my own hands, I knew better. I also always took great care with marine engines, often someone's life can depend on that, I built Volvos for the coast fishing fleet for many years.

Plus fishermen have arms like trash cans, it is best to NOT make them unhappy.

I asked the usual questions, the answer to the one about preoiling was "Oh, we don't do that here."

I gave up at that, had him return it. He had installed the wrong oil pump eccentric, so of course the timing cover jammed the engine and it cracked the cover. I found a correct oil pump eccentric, installed it, sent it back with a note to replace the timing cover, it was damaged.

The engine was back in two days, it leaked water into the bilge and "Damned near sunk the boat!" The demand was for a refund, I was tickled to give it to them.

Yep, the same cracked timing cover was installed, I bolted on a new one and sold it the next day. I got an email from the customer's wife a day or so later, actually calling me names because the engine leaked water, and demanding "16 hours of labor at $60 per hour."

K...

This time another installer had put on the wrong intake gasket, there are two designs for the 302. I had supplied the gasket kit which contains both, of course.

The customer changed the intake gaskets over himself, his installer refused to do it, insisting that he was right and I was wrong. The customer was also a gentleman and apologized.

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Just one set of incidents out of literally thousands over the years. So you see, even offering a complete assembled long block will leave the builder at the complete mercy of what happens in the field.

Still most folks who tackle a do it yourself job do have the skill and ability, and there are few problems.

It is usually the beginners who have problems, and I don't mind trying to help them because there was a time when I was learning myself so I understand.

Just last night a nice polite young man emailed me to ask which way the thrust washer goes on his new 22R engine. I explained, his next email asked why the oil rings were bending when he tried to install them.

Now a piston is cracked, oil rings are ruined. I advised him to get help with it, and I will see if I have a spare piston and some spare oil rings to ship to him for free.

Like I said, most errors happen out in the field, even when just sending a rebuild kit we are at the complete mercy of a machine shop somewhere. Most are very good, but sometimes.....

It is the way of this business. When things go wrong, I just try to help them fix it ang get things going, perhaps I am a bit different in that respect.

On building some long blocks? I have actually been thinking of wandering back there, I kinda miss doing that. Guess I need to invest in some 2X glasses, though.

*Good questions, thank you......*EB

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"The best setup cost wise we have found is to use the excellent factory exhaust manifold, then increase the pipe size to 2" all the way to the muffler, yep, the cat, too. Then we increase again to 2 1/4" on exit all the way back."

My muffler is ready for replacement so I'm going to upgrade my exhaust system according to Ted's recommendations. The system is stock size, and my cat seems to be in good shape.

Will I still benefit from increasing the pipe size to 2" starting at the exhaust manifold, even with the stock sized cat pipe input and output fittings?

>>>*When dealing with flow, remember that the goal is to have no point in the pipe act as a restriction from the manifold flange to the exit.

If the size of the cat is smaller it should be upgraded to the same size as the pipe itself. Otherwise there will be no real effect.

The reason for increasing the pipe size on exit from the muffler is to generate some directional flow, it works well.

Now if the goal is improved midrange to top end power, then a header can benefit, understand that the goal of this piece is a close to normal powerband with improvements at almost every point.

We can gain more on top end by sacrificing bottom end power and vice-versa, this would be a different article, though...*EB

Thanks EB. That makes sense and is what I thought, just checking and hoping that perhaps I didn't need to replace my cat in order to realize some gains from a freer flowing exhaust and larger pipes.

Aside from the late model intake upgrade (1994 intake on a 1988 22RE) my motor is stock, so I think I will just put a Dynomax Super turbo muffler on with 2" pipe between cat and muffler, then 2 1/4 from muffler back, as per your recommendations.

My understanding is that this should give some moderate power gains as well, but perhaps not as much as re-doing the entire system.

"My understanding is that this should give some moderate power gains as well, but perhaps not as much as re-doing the entire system."

>>>*Improving exhaust system performance doesn't really gain power, it can free up what is wasted power. The OEM's must sacrifice usable power in exchange for smoothness, good early RPM throttle response, and quietness. Their main goal is to sell you a vehicle that pleases you.

I often feel that manufacturers invest more money on those three goals than they do in any other area, except perhaps appearence.

Typically an improved system will result in small economy gains, and more power available to the driving wheels. The gains aren't huge by themselves so unless the system needs repair I wouldn't advise spending the money on a basically all stock vehicle.

Once other engine modifications come into play, exhaust flow improvements then become almost a requirement to take full advantage.

Freeing up a few additional ponies to the ground doesn't sound like much, but remember even 1 h/p is all net, the power sapped by friction and loading doesn't really change.

*Well, the guys with the 37" tires that are a foot and a half wide know all about adding load...*LOL**..at that point, think gears, but even gears will never return the situation to equal. Large tires/wheels are mass, mass is load and wind resistance. Leverage (gearing) recovers some that is lost but never all.

I have always felt that the best money spent is in the exhaust system if performance/economy is the goal. The engine works best for all around with a little back-pressure at the port, once past that point the goal is to get the gasses out of there, nothing else can be gained.

The heat is then just waste. Too big is just that, too big, velocity is lost, it can be regained at higher RPM but low end suffers.. Too small is nice velocity but quickly becomes a restriction as speed(RPM) increases.

As with everything, the key is balance........*EB

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I'm wondering how all of this would apply. If say you were doing a rebuild using a Toyota OEM short block. Not all of us know are friendly local machine shop techs that well. It would seem to me. That starting off with a known good short block. Would eliminate a lot of problems. I'm wondering if you could still make the same hp and torque. Using a OEM Toyota Short Block to start off with.

Dynamic, this all goes back to my own experience with being at the 'end of the road' (note my location). You've got to go and talk to the guys and ask them what they can do for you and print out threads like this. In then end, it helps them with their trade, if they're open to experimenting, esp if you want to push the performance envelope.

Some folks here have the money and the extra vehicle to afford them to do this; others have their one and only ride which depends on the reliability they can depend on.

This is IN ADDITION to your mechanic's ability or YOUR ability for all the periphial stuff that is tacked on..
Did you put in new gaskets?
Did you clean your EGR tubes and plate?
Do you have new/calibrated sensors?
Is your fuel pump new?
Are your injectors cleaned and rematched?

Your MACHINIST is not responsible for anything other than the head/block you gave them.
YOU and your mechanic are responsible for the condition of what gets bolted ON TO THEM, including performance or bling-bling stuff.

Get the big picture here. Not knocking on you, but the machinist can kick you back a good product; what you bolt to it afterward is on you. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Again, GO to the machine shop, tell them that you might be a customer, ASK if they have some time to lead you around the shop for a tour, ask them what they use (hot tank or bead blast, pressure checks, NDI), talk to the guys who might specialize in your engine, etc.

YOU are the consumer who is about to spend $2K on a long block rebuild. Getcher buns out there and talk to folks. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif" alt="" />

My machinist knows I'm a Yotahead, and they get lots of 22Rxx's thru the shop. Get over being unacquainted, and TAKE THE TIME TO KNOW YOUR LOCAL MACHINIST.

My plugged nickels; DO IT!!

M.

So, basically for the same price as a V8 conversion, you can have half the HP and torque. Been that route before...thank god for advanced adaptors.

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>>>*That is a good article, Margi. A customer really should take the time to check out their machine shop, ask a few questions, get to know the people.

I would hazard a guess that 99& of all shops want their customer happy, average shops will have a quarter million bucks bolted to the floor and in cabinets, perhaps more.

Of course if you arrive and see a mountain of engine blocks and heads and the crew scurrying around looking somewhat in mayhem, sometimes it might be best to keep it short.

I have seen times when folks walk in with piles of questions and I might be looking at a 4:00 deadline with three hours of work to do in two.

This of course is when the phone will also ring and some nice person begins to explain about the good deal they got on the rusty blue 4 Runner that their wife doesn't know about...yet....

Still, a good relationship is the key, and trust matters. If you don't feel it, then there is usually another shop not far away.

I do know I have turned down work because the consumer seemed suspicious and untrusting, so the opposite is true...You should sticky your own post....*EB

If I may I would like to add something to this thread, from my experience with my 22re, I found that by simply advancing the stock cam 1 - 2 degrees I actually saw a better performance increase than from the DOA 270 cam I installed. which is just sitting on the bench in our garage. I wasted my money on that purchase <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />.


Chucky MoMo <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

A good thing about good machine shops is they can source parts at near wholesale prices. I dont even bother going to a parts store anymore, because I can get a full meal deal right from the man that I need to see anyhow. I suppose I should explain that I assemble my own engines and have a machine shop do stuff like polish/grind the crank, put in valve guides, and prep the block.

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