I was thinking mostly a new radiator, but just not ruling out the possibility of finding a good used or NOS one. I seem to have a knack for running into stuff like that, usually right after I paid too much somewhere else. I also have a parts trooper, another 86 with A/C. It looked like the same radiator to me, but with the A/C stuff packed in there it is tough to tell. Radiatorbarn is good, though I've also heard good things about www.outlawradiator.com too. Prices at both seem to be pretty close to $100 right now. Too bad the heater core isn't that easy to find and cheap.

I'm also upgrading to a clutch fan. The non-A/C 86 troop has a solid mount four blade fan, definitely not optimal.

I had at one time thought about going to an aluminum rad, pricing isn't a whole lot more than a new 2 core. It would take some measuring and a little light fabrication, but it sure would cool a 4 cylinder.

The motor has been cleaned inside and out, seals all replaced, and reassembled with the right mix of parts. As of yesterday motor and trans are sitting in the Trooper, now to get the manifolds on and wire up a fuel pump. One tip: If you attempt this on a 2.3L powered Trooper, get help with the trans, get the biggest burly help you can think of. I did it myself but not without a lot of work. It pays to pick up a couple of longish 10mm 1.25thread bolts too, to line up the bell housing to the motor.

The flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate between the Impulse and Trooper all look identical. The disc that was in the Impulse has one more damper spring in it, but dimenensions are the same. For someone in a hurry or doing this on a budget I think those parts will cross over. You have any info on this Jerry?

Not much else to report here, just thought I'd put in a little update. Should not be long and I'll have a report on the difference in performance.

YES ALL THE CLUTCH AND PR PL PARTS ARE THE SAME , YOU WILL HAVE TO USE THE THROWOUT BRN OFR THE 2.3 TROOPER , AS IT IS DIFF, THAN THE ONE FROM THE IMPULSE SAME BEARING BUT THE COLAR IS DIFF. JERRY

Its ALIVE! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /><img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> I still have some little stuff to get tidied up but it fired right up today. I'll get timing and carb tunig done tonight, but the main thing I need to get sorted out now is how to wire up the power relay for the fuel pump. Just to get it fired up I ran it off an aligator clip to the battery, but I need to find a safe way to run it for good. I want it to cut off in an accident or if the truck dies.


Here is my thinking:

Standard bosch type relay, 100% duty cycle.

Wire the pump to the fixed side of the switch.

Wire the NC terminal to the starter so the pump runs when cranking.

Wire terminal that is closed when the relay is active to keyed power or the battery.

Wire the coil of the relay to something live only when the motor is turning. There is an engine relay, and some of the emissions/carb stuff (EFE, choke, etc) that are only alive when the motor is spinning.

So here are my problems. Where is an easy place to splice into the starter solenoid wire? Any ideas for an easy source of key on only power under the hood? And finally, what should I source for engine spinning only power? I'd like to find all these under the hood and with minimal cutting/splicing of the harness.

The other option is figuring out how to run it off the oil pressure switch for the idiot light. That would put the relay running on the NC side of the relay and I'd be depending on the oil sender to power the relay to cut off juice to the fuel pump. It also doesn't solve the pump power while cranking issue.

I think that about covers it. I should have a nice report on the HP gains tomorrow. Once I get things a bit more organized and tools picked up I'll get it on the road and see what it can do. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Never mind on the relay. I found what I needed under the fuse box. I'm pulling starting power from the starter wire as it comes out of the engine relay. Then running power is coming from the cigarette lighter. Power to activate the relay comes from the air cond circuit. The only thing I have not confirmed is the cranking side of my relay is working but its one of those things where it just can't help but work.

I found a new problem, but I'm going to move it to a new thread. Basically, other than this minor vac leak the motor runs great. I can't say I feel a huge amount more power but it is better than before. I think I still have some work to do getting the carb dialed in (like buy a Weber) but it moves right down the road.