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My memory isn't 100% clear on the details, but I tapped the ACC circuit to drive the relay coil. Doing it this way, you also get the benefit of "load reduction" when you hit the starter; all accessories go OFF while starting.


Ah yes, you're right. I want "hot in run", not "hot in start and run". I'm pretty sure the radio is wired that way, and would be a convenient place to get power for the relay coil.

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If yer not in a rush to gitter done, gimmee a few days and I'll see if I can get some pics, and/or a schematic of what I did.


That would be helpful. Like I said I want to run the inverter off it, I need to check it again but at 400W full load I'm pretty sure it pulls close to 50A DC! (Can you say alternator upgrade?)

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I wouldn't use the scotch-loks myself, I like a razor blade, solder, and heat shrink.


I prefer solder too, or a Weatherpack connector in lieu of splices. If I connect it to the radio, I can probably add a wire to the "power" pin on the connector - just piggyback it and solder in place. There's no need for weatherproofing in the cab (well, I suppose there could be...;) )

2000 Mitsubishi Montero Endeavor, "Katsumi", 138k
1993 Toyota Tercel, backup vehicle, 93k
1989 Isuzu Trooper, "Beniko", R.I.P. at 233k

My 'Genuine Isuzu Parts' decals - for sale