What's the trick to removing the interlock plunger? I've removed the seal plugs, poppet springs, check balls and H-L shift rail - can see the plunger, but don't want to drive on it unless that's the only way it will come out.

Frank

Got it - the FSM doesn't allow for folks that don't have small diameter magnets - only way I saw to get it out in the order suggested by the FSM. It's easier to continue disassembly and once you have the chain cover off, it can be pushed out with a small screwdriver.

Now stuck on the snap-ring holding the input gear assembly and I need a better set of snap-ring pliers to get it out, so I'll wait until I get a set to finish pulling that last assembly.

I don't see anything obviously wrong yet, but then it's the first one of these I've opened up.

Frank

Sometimes I guess it's best not to go looking for trouble where you don't know if any exists... it's too easy to find.

The front output shaft bushing on the t-case doesn't look so good - has a rough spot on one side. I guess I could figure it doesn't get used too often and not at high rpms and let it go, but I sure would like to replace it. The problem is that - like the rear tailhousing bushing - it's a funky looking piece and appears to only be available if you order a replacement case. I just priced that - $1,135.65 list - Olympia is $937.48 + 112.50 shipping. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" />

I'd sure hate to buy a used one and find the same problem. Somebody needs to go into the bushing business.

Frank

Nobody should post alone. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif" alt="" />

Regardless...The conversation was going quite well. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

I would be very surprised to see the front bushing worn, It does not spin all that much and its submerged in oil.

It may have a few scores in it from bedding in? Or perhaps a chunk of debris got stuck in ione section. If the yoke looks good I would not worry.

Kevin

I hope it doesn't spin at all. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

It's not the purtyest I've ever seen - it's probably ok, given the minimal use I'll put on it. I'll try to clean it and get a picture of it tomorrow. A closer look shows wear in 2 spots that I can see so far. The yoke's fine with only light scoring.

It's probably caused by whatever caused the glob o' goo I found on the drain plug (real fine paste stuff). I changed the oil before going to CO, so there must be something breaking down somewhere in the assembly - just haven't found it yet. Maybe when I get all of the bearings out something will stand up and shout at me. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

Frank

Does anyone have the factory spec for the Gen1 t-case rear output shaft end play? I thought it was in the FSM, but I can't find it now.

I replaced the rear cover a while back. At the time, I measured end play and chose the bearing spacer thickness with the t-case on the truck - not the ideal circumstance. On the bench, it looks like I don't have enough (any) clearance even considering gasket thickness and I noticed that one of the bearings (I think the one in question) showed minor heat discoloration on the outer edge of the race in one small spot.

Any info on the correct end play spec will be appreciated.

Frank

Talking to myself again - I guess t-case work is for loners. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

I've found another FSM issue. The FSM and the OE parts list diagram call for the spacer (if needed) to be placed on the front output bearing, followed by the wave spring (if necessary) before installing the front cover that contains the pulse generator pickup sensor. My t-case had the spacer installed first (against the bearing) and then the wave spring. I don't know that it makes any difference, since the t-case functioned in 4WD, but I think I'll re-install it like I found it - even though it would seem to make more sense to have a wave spring working against steel rather than the aluminum cover recess.... surprisingly, observed wear on the 4 wave high points was minimal.

Also, the FSM calls out .078" as standard clearance between the bearing and the cover recess, with the spacer used if clearance is more than standard. I have considerably less than standard (.040"), yet a spacer was still installed, along with the wave spring. Allowing for the compressed thickness of the wave spring and the spacer, there's barely any clearance - maybe .001", but that is increased by the gasket thickness of .010", so I guess that's ok also.

Just wanted to put this on record in case anyone else runs into it.

Frank

This sounds like more stuff to archive.

Hint to moderators.