I can't get it to shift into 4L. In what I "think" is 2H with the rear propshaft installed for leverage, sometimes there's a ratcheting sound in one direction, sometimes it wants to turn the front output and sometimes it doesn't.

Maybe it's because it's dry, but now's the time to take it back down if necessary. Does anyone have a picture of the installed shift fork ends (where the shifter lever works) without the control housing installed?

Frank

This is the damndest thing I've ever seen! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" /> I took it apart and found the problem was a couple of burrs on the H-L shift rail that were binding on the flange between the case and the chain cover.... removed the rail, filed the burrs and polished... reinstalled the rail and control housing... shifted fine.... reinstalled the rear cover, still shifted fine.... reinstalled the side cover and detent plugs... still shifted fine... reinstalled the speedo gear and the switches and it refused to go into 4L again.

I'll take it down again tomorrow, but this is aggravating. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" /> I think either the case is slightly misaligned with the chain cover or the H-L rail is slightly bent... more likely the former.

Frank

Maybe one of the switches are going in too deep and putting lateral pressure on the shaft and allowing it to dig into something else.

Just an idea.

Clay

Clay -

I think you're close. The switch can't go in too deep, but the switch pressure on the rail in combination with a very tight edge somewhere is stopping the rail... it could be the pressure from the switch moving the end of the rail so it doesn't clear the tailhousing pocket - or switch pressure creates a very slight bow in the rail that causes one of the detents to catch on a misaligned edge in the mating bores between the case and the chain cover. It p*ssed me off, though - I do know that. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> After I drink enough coffee I'll go take it down again and look at the parts carefully in the daylight under a magnifying glass.... maybe then I can see where it's binding. I really don't want to start grinding on the tailcover housing with a new seal already installed, but if I have to, I will.... hopefully I can loosen the chain cover and knock it into better alignment.... we'll see.

Frank

Frank, check the roll pins in the lever shifter forks, especially the one that you have to take out to seperate the tranny from the tcase. If it's driven too deep (ANY past the bottom surface), it will bind on the other fork in that shift maneuver. Detent pressure may be forcing it into a bind there.

Thanks, Eddy - Actually, the roll pins holding the shift forks to the rails can't bind up the shifter - there's plenty of clearance.

I had to go out for a meeting with the County Planning Commission, but not before taking another run at the t-case. It's a weird alignment problem. With the 4WD switches and speedo gear removed, it still wouldn't go into 4L.... removed the rear cover and it shifts fine - slick as owl stuff.... found a few burrs on the rail, filed and polished it.... put the rear cover back on and it didn't want to seat with the H-L rail in the rear (4L) position.... checked the pockets in the rear cover - look ok.... put the rear cover on without the .040" bearing shim and it shifts fine.... when I add the shim, I can't get the cover on all the way when the shift rail is all the way back. Since the shim adds available depth for the rail to operate in, you wouldn't think that would happen, but with the shim in place, the cover is actually pushed rearward .010" as the rail moves back into the 4L position (yet it doesn't without the shim <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />). The only thing I can think of at this point is that maybe the bearing recess cut into the rear cover is slightly off in transverse alignment - iow, not 90* to the rail axis - and crowding the rail to one side. I don't want to open those rail pocket up, so I guess I'll keep polishing the rail until it works.

Frank

My guess is wrong, then, but it doesn't bind on the shifter, it binds on the other fork as they pass. Does the spacer interfere with the pocket?

After fiddling with it for another 2 hours, I might have a clue. When I shift into 4L, the main shaft moves rearward by .019", lifting the bearing retainer snap ring from the forward stop by the same amount. I don't remember paying attention to the clutch hub orientation <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif" alt="" />, so there's a good chance I have one in backward. After I cool off a little <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />, I'll tear it down... again.... and see.

Frank

No, the spacer serves to increase pocket depth by limiting mainshaft assembly rear travel - and the spacer doesn't encroach laterally into the pocket area.

See my last post for what I now think might be the problem.

Frank

I think you may have it. That would explain the ratcheting sound. Brew a pot of Blue Mountain, and it will all be all right.