Welcome! We don't know what size tires will fit... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />
They are asking $3,900 which seems about right according to KBB.
It should be a cream puff at that price, but the price is fair if it's a very good vehicle.
I'd like to be able to go on longer trips to go camping so I want the reliability for those trips.
At 120k you're pushing the reliability envelope on some things - engine (valve seals), cooling fan clutch, radiator, water pump, etc.... nothing that money won't fix. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />
the temperature gauge didn't get past a quarter of the way up even after a 30 minute test drive (a 50 degree day). Is this normal?
From what I've experienced and seen reported, "normal" is just under the halfway mark - the thermostat may be stuck open or the gauge or sender may be out of range.
The other thing is a strange sensation that right hand turns are more stable (less body lean?) that left hand turns. There are two different brands of tires in the front (right one is brand new) and the left one had 6 lbs. less air, would that be enough to make a noticeable handling difference? The steering seemed to have a bit of slop, I had to make larger corrections than I expected to keep it centered in my lane when going about 70 MPH. I should say that I'm used to very flat handling, my daily driver is a 1998 BMW M3! The rear tires obviously had been on the front as they show some cupping, IÆll have to at least get the alignment checked.
A Gen1 ain't no M3, so get used to that - but it can be made to handle quite well at reasonable speeds. You should at least drive it with proper tire inflation. If the rear tires are a matched pair, have them put those on the front to see if the handling improves. If not, there's front end component wear or alignment issues to consider - get it checked before you pay $3900. Most of the front end parts are easy to replace.
Have the shop run a compression check - service spec is 119psi - any cylinder lower, it should rebuilt. Any cylinder showing more than 14 psi differential to the highest should be cause for a rebuild.
Have them check the manifold vacuum - should be 18-20 in/Hg.
Let the engine idle for 30 minutes after warmup and see if there's smoke from the exhaust - if so, it needs valve guide seals.
The 3.0L engines are prone to blowing head gaskets - usually caused by poor preventative maintenance of the cooling system.... radiator fouling and fan clutch are the major contributors.
Good luck,
Frank
