First, after reading the last 6 months of posts (over 3 days) I have to say that you guys are the most polite bunch of posters I've ever seen! I can't recall a single nasty comment by anybody and somehow everbody for the most part stays on topic, WOW!

IÆve done multiple post searches and absorbed an excellent education (including what NOT to do <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />), IÆm surprised that the FAQ doesnÆt have this kind of info.

Anyway I'm about to purchase a 91 Montero LWB RS Automatic (non-LSD) from a used car dealer. Visibly itÆs in excellent shape, no rust at all and has 119K miles on it. They are asking $3,900 which seems about right according to KBB. ItÆs got a clean carfax and looks like one prior owner. I'll be using it for driving in snow and I'd also like to start trail riding. It won't really be a daily driver but I'd like to be able to go on longer trips to go camping so I want the reliability for those trips. Of course there may be better 4x4 options but IÆm addicted to the no-nonsense boxy style of this year Monty.... sound familiar.... am I hooked?

My question now is more about what I should look for as problem areas and how many more miles could I expect to get out of a truck this old. The engine looks very clean (of course the dealer would probably have steam cleaned it) but the temperature gauge didn't get past a quarter of the way up even after a 30 minute test drive (a 50 degree day). Is this normal? There are no service records but it looks garage kept, the paint isnÆt even faded on the hood or roof. I take that to mean that somebody cared for it properly and did the needed service. Of course that 119K would mean that the timing belt, water pump, and tensioner stuff would need done ASAP. The 2WD/4WD shift and indicators work just fine.

The other thing is a strange sensation that right hand turns are more stable (less body lean?) that left hand turns. There are two different brands of tires in the front (right one is brand new) and the left one had 6 lbs. less air, would that be enough to make a noticeable handling difference? The steering seemed to have a bit of slop, I had to make larger corrections than I expected to keep it centered in my lane when going about 70 MPH. I should say that I'm used to very flat handling, my daily driver is a 1998 BMW M3! The rear tires obviously had been on the front as they show some cupping, IÆll have to at least get the alignment checked.

ItÆs a 2.5 hour round trip to the dealer from where I live and IÆve been to look at it twice. ItÆs already received the state inspection (which IÆd have to do again since itÆs in another state) and I found a shop down the street from the dealer that will do a pre-inspection with a compression test for about $110, money well spent I expect.

The best part is thanks to you guys if I do buy it IÆve already got a whole list of wish list upgrades! Has that ôUpcoming Project: S-t-r-e-a-c-hö placeholder (teaser) been in the Mitsubishi Projects section for long? And lastly, what kind of rims can I fit on ità Just kidding! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I look forward to reading your advice and thanks for taking the time to read my post. Help me get on the trails!
Bob

P.S. The search function of the forums would be so much more useful if there was an option of only searching the subject lines rather than the entire text! [Crap, now I see that the Search funtionality is much better when I'm logged onto the board, I did all my searching before I registered!]

Welcome! We don't know what size tires will fit... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />


It should be a cream puff at that price, but the price is fair if it's a very good vehicle.



At 120k you're pushing the reliability envelope on some things - engine (valve seals), cooling fan clutch, radiator, water pump, etc.... nothing that money won't fix. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />



From what I've experienced and seen reported, "normal" is just under the halfway mark - the thermostat may be stuck open or the gauge or sender may be out of range.



A Gen1 ain't no M3, so get used to that - but it can be made to handle quite well at reasonable speeds. You should at least drive it with proper tire inflation. If the rear tires are a matched pair, have them put those on the front to see if the handling improves. If not, there's front end component wear or alignment issues to consider - get it checked before you pay $3900. Most of the front end parts are easy to replace.

Have the shop run a compression check - service spec is 119psi - any cylinder lower, it should rebuilt. Any cylinder showing more than 14 psi differential to the highest should be cause for a rebuild.

Have them check the manifold vacuum - should be 18-20 in/Hg.

Let the engine idle for 30 minutes after warmup and see if there's smoke from the exhaust - if so, it needs valve guide seals.

The 3.0L engines are prone to blowing head gaskets - usually caused by poor preventative maintenance of the cooling system.... radiator fouling and fan clutch are the major contributors.

Good luck,
Frank

That thing better be perfect for $3900. It will be hard to find one with less miles though. Too much I think. I just got a 93SR with rear ARB, bumper, adjustable shocks, snorkel, bunch of spare parts ,143,xxx miles... for less. If you want to travel, there is a 90 in really good condition in Anderson SC. 108,xxx miles. I can get the number from my bro. Check the for sale section on here.

And a cherry 91RS in Gainesville GA for around 2500.

Bob, where are you in Baltimore? I'm down in Annapolis. Trails...in MD...ha ha! Where are you thinking?

If you're looking for something to drive in the snow, I would hold out for a Gen 2 (92+) due to the Active Trac 4wd system. Like fulltime 4wd. Of course, Gen 2 is not as "Boxy" as the Gen 1.

That Sparkem, he sure got a great deal on that Gen 2!!!

The weakest link in the steering is the idler arm. All the other pieces have zirk fittings. While the idler has a plastic bushing with no zirk fitting. Thus, it tends to fail before the other pieces.

Be sure to have the crank bolt replaced with the newer style bolt. Be sure to have the new bolt torqued correctly.

The price seems high. But, not knowing what used car prices are in your area, it may be in line.

that price seems pretty high to me too. should be able to get a very nice one for about half of that... but for what their asking, at a minimum it should be yoked out. if he already drove 2.5 hours to go look at it out of state, personally id keep looking for one from a private seller for a better price.

That does seem like a high price. The temp gauge should be right in the middle, or just below the middle.

A gen II will get you a much better handling vehicle with about 30 more hp. (24 valve 3.0L SOHC) or 60 more hp (24 valve 3.5L DOHC - SR model). All for not much more than $3900. But, to each his own.

I sent a PM to the guy in Georgia with the 90 for sale but haven't received a reply yet. It looks great but I'm concerned that the tires stick too far outside the fender to pass a Maryland state inspection. His last post said $3,000 OBO not $2,500 though.

Thanks much to FrankR for the data on what the compression check should show.

Bob

The one in Anderson SC you mentioned isn't listed on this forum in the for sale section. Do you have any additional info??

Bob