You did plug the distributor plug back in, right?

It's a round connector on the passenger side of the truck.

If you did plug it in, check the wires on the connectors.
Those wires have a tendancy to get brittle and break right
where the go in to the connector. Make sure you don't have
a broken wire on either end... inspect carefully, as they
sometimes break and don't look like it.

Also, on the coil, make sure you have the correct plug
plugged in. There are two plugs that look identical.
One is black and one is gray. Both will plug in, but only
one will work. The ignition system is dead if the wrong one
is plugged in... The connector you want to use is black.
The gray one is not for the ignition system, but will plug-in in place of the gray one.

only wires disconnected were the black plug that goes into coil, the "billet" connector next to it that goes to small condensor near base of coil, ground strap at back of cover and battery terminals. all are connected. Rob, i checked and i found there is power going into coil, just not coming out. how do you test a coil? i have a multimeter. i dont understand how it would go bad like that. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> very odd. not sure what to do now? electrical is not my bag.

there's a test procedure, but I don't know it off the top of my head.

I'd just go to the parts store and get another. if that doesn't work, return it as bad coil isn't your problem.

-Rob

hey litnin,
do you know what that grey plug you spoke of is for? i found it on bottom side if intake manifold, next to power transistor, just hanging, unplugged? i did'nt touch it. wondering what it's for?
rob, i'm not sure on this, but any electrical part i've ever bought was non returnable. i really dont want to start throwing money at it if i cant return parts. been there done that. i did check it with a multimeter tonight and got 9k ohms from plug side to coil wire side. i also checked the plug side from pin to pin and got 4.6 ohms. anybody know what this should be? it seems really odd that it would "pop" when i removed it but i dont see what else it could be. ed mckelvy enlighted me on that square power transistor( think thats what he called it) under intake manifold being a real PITA but i dont even know what it does so i can only speculate there.to be continued

Its for the EGR temp. sensor, Califorina engines only.


Madcat <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Mike-

Which pin did you use to test? It should be the one farthest from mounting bolts. You should also only get 0.81-0.99 Ohms. Your value for the secondary coil (pin to coil wire) is within spec.

Michael

Madcat's right.. it's an egr temp sensor for california vehicles.



That's the ignitor module. Yes, it's a real PIA to get to.
It's under the intake manifold. The easiest way to get to
it is through the passenger side fender well... even then,
it's not an easy chore. It's held on with 2 10mm head bolts (6mm bolts). If I remember right, it's a 2 pin black connector.

my buddy checked with multimeter, there is only 2 pins to check as far as i know. i believe he put 1 probe on each pin and got the 4.6 ohms? i'm going to advance auto today with old coil and gonna check to a new one and compare readings.to be continued <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

went to advance and autozone. coil not in stock. both checked with multi meter and looked up specs. got 1.1 ohms on primary test and 10k on secondary test. both within specs? now what?

Have you checked the resistance on the coil wire itself? I had one fail on me 75 miles from home on a Sunday afternoon. Evidently the wire had an internal break and had been arcing across the gap for some time until it chose that moment to stop playing the game.

no, i only checked on the out side of coil with a test light. power going in with key on. not coming out when cranking the motor over.