Extreme Terrain
4x4Wire Trail Talk Forums: Jeep, Toyota, Mitsubishi, Pajero, Isuzu, Kia, 4WD, 4x4, SUV, Off-Road and OutdoorWire Forums


Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Rate Thread
Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 4
Transmission pan removal info request #684575 01/10/06 03:34 AM
Anonymous
Unregistered
I need to remove the transmission pan to my '91 Montero
to fix the drain bolt. The threaded insert inside has
come loose and it leaks and I cannot remove the bolt ..
it just spins. Can anyone help me with some advice on
how to do this? There's a strength member across the
back bolts of the pan and I don't know how to remove it.

Help ~!

Re: Transmission pan removal info request #684576 01/10/06 03:42 AM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,238
FrankR Offline
Web Wheeler
****
I haven't done that job in-frame, but others here have.... maybe they can help. Meanwhile, I think you have to either remove the front axles and differential - or - unbolt the engine mounts and raise the engine about an inch or so.

Good luck,
Frank


'89 [color:"white"]G-Raider[color:"white"] [color:"black"]Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 172k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
Re: Transmission pan removal info request [Re: FrankR] #684577 01/10/06 03:49 AM
Anonymous
Unregistered
I don't see why the front axles or diff would have to move.
The transmission mount is a transverse member that the
tranny rest on and it obscures the rear bolts on the pan.
Wish I had a book on this thing. I also want to change the
filter (automatic 4-speed) .. there must be a procedure
for doing this in-frame.

Re: Transmission pan removal info request #684578 01/10/06 04:01 AM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,238
FrankR Offline
Web Wheeler
****
Sorry - I misread your first post and thought you were trying to remove the engine oil pan. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

To remove the transmission pan you have to support the t-case and remove the #2 transmission crossmember. Not too terrible.

Frank


'89 [color:"white"]G-Raider[color:"white"] [color:"black"]Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 172k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
Re: Transmission pan removal info request [Re: FrankR] #684579 01/10/06 04:05 AM
Anonymous
Unregistered
I just found an article in the archive, but it's not
too well written. Looks like I just jack up the T-case
and then unbolt the cushion bolts and then the crossmember
bolts. Apparently the dipstick has to be unbolted from
the pan, too. I'll have to visualize all this tomorrow
when I get under it. This leak is terrible ~! Any other
tips from you guys?

Re: Transmission pan removal info request #684580 01/10/06 04:11 AM
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 178
V
v6lsmonty Offline
Wheeler
when I removed my pan I also support the trans on the bell housing. While your in there you might want to consider a new filter and maybe a kickdown cable since they stretch over time.


1989 Montero LS (sold)
1994 Cherokee Country bone stock
Re: Transmission pan removal info request [Re: v6lsmonty] #684581 01/10/06 04:15 AM
Anonymous
Unregistered
Already got the filter and gasket. I'm going to have to
replace the drain plug and I'm considering a simple brass
fitting with a cap since the inner threaded piece has
come loose. Hope there's room for a nut inside the pan.
I gotta stop this leakage.

Re: Transmission pan removal info request #684582 01/10/06 04:20 AM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,238
FrankR Offline
Web Wheeler
****
The dipstick is a 2-part piece with an o-ring seal. The lower half will come out with the pan. I'm not sure you have to remove the upper part - maybe so (it's not fun to do) - maybe you can pull the pan and separate the dipstick halves without unbolting the top half - it's worth a try.

You have 2 bolts on the cushion, 2 on the rear "T" member and 8 on the crossmember.... it's heavy, so be careful.

Otherwise, that's about all there is to it. While you have the pan off, you might want to replace the screen if it's gunked up.... if not, leave it alone. If so, you might need 2 screen gaskets - only 1 comes with the screen and another like it is under the screen mounting flange (it might stay in place without damage on removal). You'll want a new pan gasket, also.

Frank


'89 [color:"white"]G-Raider[color:"white"] [color:"black"]Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 172k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
Re: Transmission pan removal info request [Re: FrankR] #684583 01/10/06 11:51 PM
Anonymous
Unregistered
Lookslike the shift linkage must come off, too, and
it's attached to both the tranny and the crossmember.
It looks a little tricky, so I'll just have to take
notes on how I remove it. That crossmember really
does look heavy, too.

Since I can't drain the oil through the plug because
it won't screw out, I'm dreading this because the
fluid will have to leak out along the edges of the pan
before removal can be done. I'm hoping to get a plastic
hose into the filler pipe and suck some of that
fluid out first. Is this feasible or are there obstacles
there?

Boy, this is gonna be a two-man job, I think.

Re: Transmission pan removal info request #684584 01/11/06 12:23 AM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,238
FrankR Offline
Web Wheeler
****
You could probably siphon or pump some out through the fill pipe... maybe get a 12v fuel pump and stick the inlet hose inside the tube. Maybe you could drill through the drain bolt and get most of it that way.

An alternate suggestion would be to put a large pan under the transmission pan, loosen the bolts a little at a time and let it drain out of the sides until you get to the pan gasket level - then remove the bolts on one end until the remaining oil dumps out of the end of the pan.

Yes, the linkage has to be removed - it's not as bad as it looks.... you'll be able to figure out how it goes back together.

Frank


'89 [color:"white"]G-Raider[color:"white"] [color:"black"]Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 172k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 4







4x4Wire Social:

| 4x4Wire on FaceBook |


OutdoorWire, 4x4Wire, JeepWire, TrailTalk, MUIRNet-News, and 4x4Voice are all trademarks and publications of OutdoorWire, Inc. and MUIRNet Consulting.
Copyright (c) 1999-2019 OutdoorWire, Inc and MUIRNet Consulting - All Rights Reserved, no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without express written permission
You may link freely to this site, but no further use is allowed without the express written permission of the owner of this material.
All corporate trademarks are the property of their respective owners.

Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.3
(Release build 20190728)
PHP: 7.4.33 Page Time: 0.008s Queries: 15 (0.005s) Memory: 0.6322 MB (Peak: 0.7543 MB) Data Comp: Off Server Time: 2026-11-03 13:45:21 UTC
Valid HTML 5 and Valid CSS