So the tailshaft housing is the lift point for the transfer
case or is the case lifted by the gearcase on the right
side (maybe twisting the whole assembly)? I can't lift the
tailshaft housing with the crossmember in place, so it seems
logical that the jack be placed on the gearcase to lift it.
I may very well drill out the drain plug; that's a good idea.
I plan to replace it anyway with an allen bolt. Anybody
know what size that drain bolt is?

Support the t-case near the outside edge, driver side - in the area of the torque damper... that should make it easier to work around the transmission. If necessary, you can support it at the tailhousing, but as you said, that makes it difficult.

Frank

There are pumps made just for sucking oil out of a dipstick tube. I think one is called Mityvac and another is called Topsider. Some people like to change their oil that way, and some people have to (boats).

I've changed oil in many a boat engine that way - on my last boat I mounted an oil trasfer pump in the bilge and connected it so all I had to do to change oil was turn a valve and flip the pump switch. It was a heck of a lot better than trying to suck it out through the dipstick.

Some of those pumps like Jabsco are fairly expensive, though - why I recommended a cheap 12v fuel pump...My initial idea was to use one similar to this:

Electric Fuel Pump

I have a similar one that I find a use for from time to time.... it should have no trouble with thin A/T fluid.

There are also hand pumps that can be used..... you could even set up a siphon system with some tubing and a hand priming bulb from a boat fuel system... like this, but cheaper is probably available from WalMart:

Fuel Line

If you use the siphon line, you'd need to reduce the tubing size.

Frank

I've got a big old model 12-Volt fuel pump (clunker-style)
and that's what I'm gonna use to drain down the tranny;
thanks for the advice. How far upward can I move the
tranny when I put the jack to it? Glad the Monty has so
much ground clearance; I don't think I'll need to lift the
vehicle at all for this and that means the jack stands
won't have to be too tall for the job.

Anybody know the size of the transmission drain plug for
the 91 Montero auto tranny?

You'll be limited by the fill tube until the pan is off - or unless you unbolt the upper part of the tube at the bellhousing. The roll stopper is also a limiter. Once the fill tube, roll stopper and rear prop shaft are removed, you can move it as far as it'll go, but I don't see the need. If you try to jack it, be careful of the hard lines... I don't remember if they're attached to anything that might cause a crimp if they're not unbolted.

Frank

I'm gonna make another attempt to seal up the plug
tomorrow with a round plastic plate and an O-ring.
The O-ring will surround the drainplug indentation
and be RTV'd in place there. Then I'll RTV the round
plastic plate over that with heavy RTV outside the
O-ring. Hold it in place with a bottle jack and let
it cure. If that holds, I can use the fuel pump to
remove old fluid when it's changing time. I think
the RTV will allow flexing and expansion.

The plate is a wall-protector for doorknobs that tend
to strike the wall. I think this will work and save me
a lot of labor.

I'm not sure if you've stripped the drain bolt threads or the pan threads or exactly what has happened, but if the threads are stripped, have you tried to put downward pressure on the bolt and see if you can get the threads to bite? If you can get a screwdriver under the head of the drain plug (pry on it), maybe you can get it started.

Frank

Tried that with a screwdriver. I think the insert inside
is spinning, so if I do succeed in removing the drain
bolt then I have another problem with the loose insert.

I did the patch today and it appears to be holding very
well. The plastic plate is glued with a special high temp
RTV by Locktite and there's a large diameter O-ring
surrounding the indent for the drain plug. From the O-ring
outward is solid RTV holding onto the drain pan (which
was roughed up with sandpaper and degreased thoroughly).
A bottle jack held a 2X4 against the plate while the RTV
set up and I have a heat lamp on the plate right now.
The whole thing feels very solid and there's no leakage
at all. I don't think the fluid can make it past the O-ring
at all .. and even if it did, there's be a solid inch of
this RTV for it to penetrate.

Got my fingers crossed. Wish me luck.

Good luck! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Frank