I have had add-a-leafs for along time and i'm tired of them. Not only am I sagging with age I need a softer ride. (sounds like im getting old) I know this question has been asked alot and I have searched for answers but it seems most people are going 3" or above for lift. I just need a conservative 2 or so.
I am looking at the OME medium loads (OME-18)after talking with ARB, they said it will be in the 1.75-2 inch range. Can anyone comment on whether this is correct or true to their actual application?
Does anyone have other comparable quality and lift height avail that I should consider? All-Pro?
I currently have torsion bars cranked a bit to level out the front to the raised rear and dont really want to go any lower. I guess my concern also is getting everything to match up right when i pull old springs and pop new ones in. I cant tell if I actually need 2 or 3 in lift in rear. Where do I start on this? sorry for the ramble..

Thanks
JG

Never heard any complaints on the OME leaf springs. I think they do 2" of lift pretty well, depending on the weight you have in the bed. I have a buddy with an '83 pickup and he has run the OME springs for quite a few years now and he still likes them. I think he got at least 2" of lift. You can always fine tune the lift if you need with a slightly longer spring shackle.

thanks for the reply, Roger. I just ordered the springs and bushings...I cant wait to install...this will be my first spring install so any tips are appreciated from all.

don't know if you know this, but when pulling the springs, and you're taking apart the hangers, or just one side off, don't try to pound the pin all the way out on the spring end....because it doesn't come out, i didn't know this when doing my lift, and ended up jackin up the threds on one... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />..stupid noob. I though that maybe because mine were semi rusted and stock that they were just hard to get out....didn't know that they were attached/welded on one side of the hanger and then the other side slides off....figured they were set up like the after market hangers you see

I believe the stock spring bolts have male splines on them that line up with the female splines on the stock shackle. They are supposed to come apart, but hardly ever due. I've done a few trucks, and I've had to cut half of the bolts off. A new stock shackle "kit" is like $50. They don't sell the bolts or shackle separate, just as a kit.

I have some spring bolt removal tips on the last Q&A on this Toyota Trails Truck Tech column:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/TLCA_TruckTech/TruckTech.04.01.html

Soak the bolts in penetrant a couple of days in advance. The shackle end shouldn't bee too hard to get loose, but the hanger end can be a bear.

You need 5 jackstands to do this, at least in my experience. 3 for the axle, (2 on the tube and one under the pinion) and two for the truck. I like to remove the tires, remove the ubolts, then raise the truck away from the axle...

I'm probably stating the obvious... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

When you get the spring pack, you will see there is a very thick overload leaf on the bottom. Resist all temptations to remove that to make the pack softer. Removing it will not make the ride any softer. I tried it both ways and found it no to make any difference. So just leave it on.
I think the lift on OME is more like 3" rather than 2. Over time, it settles out to little less than 2.5" These are just estimates. However, I still needed a CV axel to get rid of driveline vibrations.

Ben

I usually just do 2 frame jack stands and then pull the tires and lower the axle down on a floor jack under the center of the axle. Loosen one side to allow some wiggle room, then go to the other side and swap out the springs, assemble loosely then finish the first side.

Man, I may have to make some of those jackstand booster blocks like someone (maybe you, roger?) did with 2x4s now that I think of it b/c I dont think they will reach the frame...or suck it up and buy some taller ones.