Shouldn't have to remove the studs, it should slide right off of em. DonÆt forget the alan head bolt that goes through the thermostat housing, its pretty easy to over look. Good Luck <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

He so totally read my mind. That bolt'll getcha. Go on down to Harbor Freight and buy a set of rachet driven allen wrenches. Trying to do it with a regular allen wrench and a breaker is impossible, besides, you will need to get a torque wrench on it at some point anyhow. I would also recommend that you have a tap & die set for cleaning out holes and bolts. Years of crud make dirty threads, and dirty thread give bogus torque readings. The torque specs on that motor are non-negotiable. VERY VERY important. When tightening stuff, follow a pattern, and do it in several steps. It goes without saying that you'll need a torque wrench, and not one of them cheezy divining rod ones, either. A real one that is set-able.

The exhaust manifold is also an area that will give you fits. I can garuntee that at least two manifold studs will strip out the holes. Go ahead and put heli-coils in the back three holes ( closest to the firewall). If the others don't need it, great. But if the head is on, those back ones are a BEEEOOTCH to get to... You'll know if they are stripped, as you won't be able to get them to torque down.

As you progress with this, keep coming here. This can be a running thread for future questions.

This may help on the timing chain replacement:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/EngineMods/TimingChain.shtml

No work on the truck tonight. Dog got into a scrap with a skunk then promptly ran into the house and rubbed his face on the living room furniture! LOL! My nose and eyes feel like I've been in a tear gas chamber and the GF has 20 co-workers comming over tomorrow for an offsite meeting! She is not happy.

I did manage to get the fuel injectors packaged up and mailed off to RC Enginnering for a little cleaning.

-Curran

Man, that bites; sounds like the meeting might be at Pizza Hut.

Magic number for that hex bolt on the intake is 6mm.

50/50 on more damage; it is or it ain't.

You ARE planning on dropping the oil pan and getting all your debris out of there, YEEEESSSS?? The boss for the drain plug doesn't allow a complete flush of the pan, so do whatcha gotta do. Get some Permatex FIPG sealant for the button-up on the pan. IF the engine isn't jumped on out of there, you need to do this; no half-steppin'.

Yes, I'm planning on dropping the oil pan. Is the FIPG a better solution than rubber seal thingy that comes with the engnbldr seal/gasket set?

Thanks,

I finally got some nice weather and some time to make headway on this repair.
The timing chain ate through > 50% of the DS side chain guide before it bit the dust. The chain ended up in three different pieces and took out some of the metal of the timing chain cover with it.
The pistons all appear to have little dents in them that match up with the intake valves. It almost looks like the pistons came that way.
Couple of questions:
1) Has anyone successfully reused dimpled pistons?
2) WhatÆs the best method for cleaning the top of the block before putting on a new head gasket?

Thanks.

22re pistons have cut outs for valve clearance... and while pistons can be reused, new rings and bore honing are a must if those pistons are removed from the bore.

Check the condition of main and rod bearings if you get the pan off.