I have a new-to-me 1990 22RE 5-speed 4x4 that broke a timing chain lat week on the way to work. Since I canÆt afford the ridiculously high estimate the local mechanic gave me, IÆm trying to repair this on my own. IÆve got a few questions for the board:

1) There is a large wiring harness that runs through the air intake manifold. The harness seems to run forever in each direction. On one side it runs down along the transmission, transfer and then across a cross member and up into the cab. The other side splits into two sides: one runs along the fire wall to the coil the other runs by the fuse block and the diagnostic port then into the fire wall. Question û How do I get this out of my way so that I can remove the intake manifold?

2) Two of the head bolts were so caked into the head with carbon build up that I had to remove them with a crow bar and repeated drownings of PB-Blaster. Is this a sign of something more ominous to come?

Thanks for the help.

Curran

1) being only familiar with carbed engines until i bought my '91, i was a bit irritated with this one as well. i think factory procedure says to disconnect it from the starter and a few other things in order to get it out of the way. i just left the lower manifold hanging when i did my timing chain/head gasket job. kind of a screwy idea if you ask me.

2) did the head bolts unscrew(with your crow bar) or did you flat pull them out? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> the bolts between the 2 sets of exhaust ports are typically baked into there and are always harder to remove than the rest. don't worry, it's normal. i like to use a good moly antisieze(ARP lube is nice stuff) when i put my new head bolts in to ensure good clamping force, as well as making them easier to remove if the need be.

The harness is not as bad as it looks once you take the upper section of the manifold off first. You will be able to see everything clearly to unplug and label them. The entire cable can then come out.

pull the harness out from inside by the ecu and undo the other side by the mass air flow sensor no need to pull the manifold off. just pull the harness with the motor

Hi Curran, welcome to the board!

We have an FSM sticky'd at the top of this section; it has both 22RE and 3.0 info for ya.

A second on Will's suggestion; disconnect from the ECU and feed the harness and donut forward thru the firewall. You'll need to remove the pax wheelwell liner to see the rest of the harness, where it goes into the engine compartment and the fuseblock.

Label stuff, take notes, digi pix as you go along. Makes it time consuming, but if you can't get back to it right way, you'll be glad you took the time.

We take it your long block is taking a trip to the machine shop? What's the plan?

From our maintenance section TC R&R

Thanks for the responses and the warm welcome. IÆve been lurking on the forum for over a year now trying to pick up some knowledge. IÆve got printouts from the online FSM; an engine bay full of labels and several pictures of things as I progress. Hopefully IÆm off in the right direction.

My plan is to pull the head, and check to see if there was any damage to the pistons from impacting the valves. If everything looks okay, IÆm going to install a new RV head from engnbldr with a 270 cam, new timing chain kit and timing chain cover. If the pistons look damaged, IÆll pull the block, take it to a machine shop and then rebuild it as well. So far, I like KyleÆs idea of leaving the harness in place and just laying the intake to the side within the engine bay. But that obviously wonÆt work if I end up needing to pull the engine.

Any suggestions or hints will be appreciated?

Thanks,
Curran

Save yourself a box of band-aids and alot of headache by pulling the head with the intake attached. Remove the intake plenum for access to fuel connection etc, disconnect the heater hoses from the hard pipes (or from firewall if they come off easy) double check all ties from the head to block and inner fenders etc are clear and lift off as a unit. This will keep you from bending some fairly important pipes and save you a couple of hours on dis-assembly. Just my $.02 having gone through the same experience a few years back (chain skipped). Sucked because head was 1 year old and I got all 8 valves! Eeeeehaaaaaaw!!!!

~Darin <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />

First, I second (?) what Kewl said, take pics, document, ect. Second, don't forget the small head-to-timing cover bolt. Third, when unplugging all of the little plastic connctors ( injectors and the like ) be careful not to break them. They will be brittle...

Fourth....You're not a lurker anymore!! Yay!!!

Curran, if pulling the head, make sure you've rotated the engine to TDC BEFORE you remove the distributor and all the other goodies. If we missed that stage by now, do so before it all goes back together.

Would be cool if ya didn't dimple anything; this IS an interference engine, in case you were unaware. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Sounds like you're on track. For pulling the TC cover, grab the cardboard for a beverage box and stab the bolts in for the pattern; you're dealing with about 3 different lengths.

I have a new found respect for anyone who has ever accomplished this sort of project. After a couple of hours bashing my fat knuckles apart, I still havenÆt managed to separate the lower intake manifold from the head. I think that IÆm going to break down and pull that pesky harness out of the way. That way I can put everything on a bench to work on rather than inside the engine compartment.

Couple of questions:
1) do the studs that run through the lower intake manifold into the head need to come out before those two pieces will separate? I canÆt tell if the flange on the manifold is threaded.
2) What are my odds of finding damage to the pistons or other parts of the short block?

Thanks,
Curran