I've got the motor out in the open, oil pan off, flywheel off, looking right at the seal. My question, should I pull the rear bearing cap to get the seal out, or should I carefully pry it out? I am not doing anything with the bearings, and don't want to cause any problems with them either. I've also never done bearings before, so I don't want to bite off more than I can chew.

The factory manual I've got does not cover just main seal replacement without tearing the entire motor down. Right now I'm leaning towards a careful prying, but if I can loosen that bearing cap without worry it would probably come out quicker.

The front seal is pretty cut and dry, but this back one I wanted to get some opinions before I jump into it.

Take a Dremel with a cut off wheel and make 2 small cuts, bearly through the seal, at 3 and 9 O'clock and then thread some small screw into them use a hammer and pry it out. Also make sure not to scar the crank while doing this.

To put it back in oil up the inner seal face that rides the crank and gently tap it into place working evenly around the seal.


Madcat <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Lemme know how you did and what you did, as I am changing the clutch in my '86 Trooper and have bought the rear main seal to replace while I am down there. It is a one piece seal... I dunno; Dr. Haynes says its one piece, but prof. chilton says its a two piece. I hope its a one piece, that'd make things easier....
Good luck to you!

It is a one piece, I can tell you that much for certain. You will want something to tap the new one in with. I haven't found it yet but I think I can find some scrap pipe that will fit over the crank but just inside the outer diameter of the seal. On smaller seals you can usually just use a socket, but I don't have too many sockets around 4 inch.

Thanks for the tip madcat, I had thought of doing something simlar, cut or drill and then screw. At least I have the luxury of some time figure it all out. Only concern with cutting or drilling at it is making sure I get all the metal filings out before I put the new seal in.

Another way to get the screws in is to take some brad nails and tap them in, remove and then use some self tapping screws. No shavings and a little less likely to damage the crank.

Good luck,

Madcat <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I took my old seal to Home Depot and found a 4" PVC adpt that worked fine.I believe its a 4" adpt that slips into a 4" pipe,with female threads on the other end.I used a pvc threaded plug to plug it.I hammered the new seal in,no leaks for over 1 year now. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />