i dint know the rocker arm assembly shared the head bolts i apologize for not doing more research. tools and mechanical know how are not a problem for me. i have a automotive and machine shop to tinker in. you have a excellent point why mess with it if it works so well. i just wanted a project i guess but maybe i will wait tell i need to rework the motor because i don't really want to spend that much money on it now and i am loving the reliability of this thing. its slow as hell but dam it is nice how well it runs. i crossed over from VW/Audi land of break downs and overpriced parts.
anyways im done ranting now i guess i will just have to start working on my 912 targa project. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
thanks for the imput

You don't owe me an apology for anything. All of us, even EB, were noobs about these engines at some point.

agreed...my new saying is "if it aint broke dont fix it."

If you are looking for a project, have access to tools and a machine shop and think your truck is too slow then get a donor block and try out the EB 150 HP build. You will still have all the reliability of a Toyota, it would be a relatively inexpensive project (Especially considering you were previously fixing an Audi <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> ). Seriously I agree with the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" theory. These are motors like any others but also have their little tweaks that need to be addressed. I find that out the more I read here. Chances are you would be fooling with the sensitivity of the engine more often after a build up than you ever would while stock.

>>>*No that's not true, I always knew everything about everything, just ask my Mom. (I got spanked for taking her big clock apart to find out how it worked, I was 5....*LOL**..)...*Hey, it ticked and went "dingdong" and this bird came out and I couldn't help myself...

*Found out how it worked though....plus I put it back together and it still works today..

You are right, if it ain't broke, don't fix it unless you have extra in your jeans and are into "want" syndrome.

I understand that, (rubbing hands together gleefully...)

I would always pull the head myself but it can be done without if you are careful to not disturb the gasket. Once the head bolts are free, install a bolt at the rear to hold the head securely before starting on the cam caps, this helps lots and increases the chances of success.....*EB

I'd have to agree with you Jeff. Anytime you break the torque loose from the head it's best to replace the gasket. You right there. Why take the risk of having to do it all over again? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

And as far a drivability and gas mileage goes, it's all in your right foot. I've had a 305/525 cam in a 327 that could get 16mpg, if you could keep your foot out of it! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

If you don't want to have that "race car" cam all the time you can advance the timing a little bit to hide the loping. That was a cruel trick I played on many o' unsuspecting victims. Mwuahahaaaahaaaaa! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />