Hello, New to this forum!! Love it already!! Well, I have a 1987 Dodge Mini Ram 50 sport with the 2.6 Mitsubishi motor in it. Done tons of work to it and love it!! I'm not much of a mechanic but I do do bodywork. I did probably 40 hours of body work on it last year and painted it! Looks great, problem I'm having now is I think timing chain related. I was told that timing chain tensioners are known to go on these motors. When the motor warms up there is a rattling coming from the front of the motor. I went to a garage just to get an estimate on this repair (if this is what it is) and they quoted me 7 hours of labor and a total price of $740 with parts. I heard many people say it is a royal pain replacing these timing chains, gears, etc.. I did recently purchase a complete new Mopar timing chain set on Ebay for $50. Gears, timing and silent shaft chains ,sprockets, gaskets, etc.. Anyone have any suggestions comments on this job? I did take it to a garage and had them tighten the timing chain via the little cover on the front of the timing chain cover. Still rattled. I was going to see if I could tighten it some more myself but I was having a hard time getting the cover to pop off? Can these little cover gaskets be bought individually or did he just use rtv? I've almost considered buying another cheap truck to drive while I attempt to make some of the repairs myself this summer. I almost hate to get rid of this truck!! I love it!! Great little truck with a full size box!!!!! Any opinions, suggestions, would be greatly appreciated!!!! Thanks, Jack <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/mrt.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Most of the times its the guides that go bad. IMO it easier just to yank the engine to do it, but I can also pull a 2.6 in 45 min or less <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> . Just get a haynes, or chilton book and flow the step, and keep the plated links lined up with the timeing marks. It's not that hard to do.

Welcome to the wire <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Fix it now. The passenger side balance shaft chain drives the oil pump as well, and if shifting the adjuster didn't quiet it, something is worn out. Kind of nasty to change yourself (lots of stuff to move) and hard to seal up tight, but it can be done ok by one guy who knows how or where to ask. Take out the radiator for working room and to protect it, and while it's out, have it flow tested and rodded. Best $100 you'll spend on the truck. Spokesperson owns no equity or debt interest in any radiator industry member....

Well I had a similar noise 6000 miles after my 2.6 was rebuilt. I park the truck as soon as i could pulled off the valve cover,loosened the head !!DO NOT RECOMMEND!! I did it anyway the head should be pulled off and all gaskets be replace ,lowered the oil pan,and then take off the timing cover. When I did that the tip off the driver side of the main timing chain guide fell off the main chain I replaced it. I blame the the rebuild kit i bought from rock well. 500 miles later the #4 connecting rod bearing began to knock !!This may or may not be your problem!!! When you do look in to it have a trustworthy mechanic look at it and make sure they flush the oil system to get any particules out the oil. I recommend you dont do it your self its rated 9.5 on my scale 10 being the hardest to do. Its no easy job unless you can turn a good wrench. It took 14hrs for me to fix my timing chain problem.Hope this helps a little. P.S. I did it inframe a little more tuff but saves time to me

Monty mentioned earlier that it is easier to pull the engine...Does anyone know if the engine can be pulled out by itself without pulling any transmission components along with it?...if so, i can see how that would make things easier....

on the trucks it there is more than enough room if you take out the rad.where are you located?maybe if you are close someone here would do it for a little cash.i swaped a oil pump on one last year and the guy biult me my rock sliders and front bumper.i did it the first time with not alot of experiance and a haynes manual.just take your time and if you you get confuzed about somthing ask us here.

Personal preferance: I would do the work without pulling the motor. The head can stay in place as well.

I have done three that way with no problems.

It's a pain of a job but there are worse.

Kevin

Thanks everyone! I live in Pennsylvania. Be great if someone was willing to do it for me and not charge me the $400 that the garage wants to charge me!!!! From what I've been told and from where it sounds it's coming from, I would definetly have to say it's a timing chain related component. I figure if and when it's done it would also be smart to replace the oil pump while I'm or they are in there. Can anyone recommend a good quality oil pump for this motor? I see them online for like $60. I was looking at my Haynes manual and I pretty much understood everything except for the part about having or making a tool out of wire to hold something on the timing chain??? Your time is greatly appreciated!!! Thanks again!!! Jack <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/mrt.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I have a leaky rear seal also, so i was thinking i could kill two birds with one stone by taking the engine out.....If the engine can not come out without taking out tranny also, then i will just do timing chain repair with engine in and hold off on the rear seal...

Where do you live? I may be able to lend a hand if your not too far out.. I'm in williamsport for college.

Send me a PM

Brendan.